Cooking With Ideas

Kosher Nation

Kosher Nation is a great book by Sue Fishkoff that taught me a lot. A fascinating read, with just the right balance of forest and trees,the book's subtitle is "Why More and More of America's Food Answers to a Higher Authority." Basically, the book is about kashrut -- both its religious and its political dimensions, its everyday and its lofty practices. . . . and the changes that it has undergone as food has become increasingly industrialized. The industrialization of kosher certification includes, for example, certification in China of food additiives and products, requests to "kosher" items that require no such action because they are always already kosher (e.g., water), competition among local and global kosher certification agencies, and lengthy disquisitions on aspects of kosher eating that are less familiar to many non-Jewish Americans than, say "no BLT' or "no cheeseburger." These incldue, for example, the proscription on consuming insects that appears (according to Fishkoff) much more often than the proscription of pork in Torah. (This appears in a chapter entitled "Please Don't eat the Broccoli: Bug Infestation Takes Salad Off the Table." What I learned in this chapter a) nearly put me off vegetables entirely and b) explains the presence of light tables in some (very) observant homes. Among the other things I learned about were the history of Reform Judaism's rejection of kashrut (and more recent bending in the direction of accepting it) and the evolution of an ethics of Jewish eating that thinks consciously about the relation of kashrut to worker's rights, organic foods, environmental pollution, treatment of animals, etcetera. While not caused by incidents in Postville (which I wrote about here), they do get attention in the elaboration of that incident detailed by Fishkoff, who does a great job situating this particular within the larger environment of Jewish food politics/religion. Perhaps equally fascinating are the aspects of the history of the transmission of the skills needed to undertake kosher slaughtering, the creation of appropriate knives, and the relation of all this to the great variety of jewish communities extant nationally -- and globally. Yes, there is more to kosher wine than Manishevitz, yes, there were women leading food riots in New York repeatedly in the early twentieth century over prices for kosher meat, yes, the matzo available in some locales has occasionally been deemed NOT kosher, and humratization may be my new favorite word -- something I can export from this book and this context to cover a whole array of ways that the world becomes increasingly rule-bound and litiguious and . . . . What it "really" means is the application of more and more strict Jewish law. But, it could be lifted wildly out of context and applied elsewhere, right? What a great word. (For its relation to controversy about whether Hebrew National Hotdogs are or are not kosher -- and a reminder that standards change -- click here.)

The book, by the way, actually begins by asking why the kosher food market is increasing wildly more rapidly in the US than the population of Jewish people or, even more the case, the population of kosher-keepign/observant Jewish people. It answers this in part by focusing on marketing -- kosher becomes healthy, less factory farm like, etcetera. (Not so, once you read the book, but hey.) It becomes, as Hebrew National taught through an advertising campaign, "answering to a higher authority" than, say the FDA. Hmmm. It considers topics as wide ranging as eco-kosher and a famous (well, perhaps infamous) banquet in the history of reform Judaism where oysters and ham were served. And, it nods in the direction of the web, by mentioning The Jew and the Carrot. All in all one of the best reads I have encountered. Whether you've ever wondered about the relation of Chinese food to kashrut, want details on teh burgeoning presence of kosher facilities in baseball stadiums, or want to know the current status of raisins -- this is the book for you -- and you will still get the forest with the trees -- the notion that kosher remains a crucial way of both connecting -- and separating American Jews from each other, from non-Jewish Americans, and connecting religion to embodiment, God to the everyday, in crucial ways.

And yes, it takes up what American might "really" mean -- and what religion might "really" mean -- with out ever meaning to do so.

For a review of the book from a different perspective, click here. Or here. Or, for Fishkoff's own collection of reviews, here.

Fishkoff also writes for the Jewish Journal. Click here. . .

Nuts for the Hazelnut Kitchen

So, I have been wanting to go to the Hazelnut Kitchen for ages and finally was taken there for my birthday. Hurrah. The ambiance is swell, and the food almost up to the standards of eating at home! Well, actually, loads of it was swell. While we had a limited view of the kitchen, what we could see was a tiny little kitchen and lots of very active cooking. And the heat vent we sat near kept us warm, and this despite the (then) unseasonably cold weather that evening. (And, since the weather was cold we were especially thankful to the parking goddess for a spot right near the restaurant.)

We were about 10 minutes late -- and it turned out nearly everyone was that evening because of the weather. The staff was perfectly fine about that and our nervousness was probably just because it is actually difficult to get a reservation.

What did we eat? Well, I had a special that involved (you'll be surprised, dear readers!) pork belly. I seem to have it whenever possible, everywhere. This was a good one, reasonably portioned and cooked beautifully. And yes, I do know this is bacon in disguise. The second appetizer was the cabbage salad, which was absolutely wonderful, despite being too much for a single person to eat for dinner let alone an appetizer. (Is this upstate NY portion control, or what?)  The cabbage was right on the border of sweet and sour, and softly cooked. Yes, I kept snatching bits from the plate. It was cooked with local apples walnuts, cayuga blue cheese and cider-dijon vinagrette. (Yes, I remember it better than the pork belly, but to be fair, it is also on the web menu.).

For mains we had: (a) the roast normandy duck breast and duck leg confit, pomegranate molasses gastrique, potato-sunchoke gratin, and wilted watercress ($28) largely attracted by three things: a) the pomegranate gastrique -- because a gastrique well accomplished is a lovely thing (something we discovered making one for pears. . . and pomegranate molasses on its own is dandy; b) the gratin because sunchokes are something that still elude me in cooking; and c) the duck leg confit which was confitted (hmmm, one or two ts there?) in house. And I had the scallops. I rarely do these days for some reason, though I love scallops. And these were both beautiful and cooked perfectly. Their outsides were a carmelly brown and a tiny bit crunchy and the inside just cooked. On the menu it says: seared day-boat sea scallops with maple-mustard seed butter, mashed sweet potatoes & braised kale (for $26). The kale was okay to pretty good and the sweet potatoes were more like pureed than mashed sweet potatoes. It forced to complain, I would say the whole meal was a little too sweet. Perhaps the kale should havebeen made a bit more tart or ?

The sweetness, though, did not deter me from dessert. I had the coffee pot de creme, whipped cream, and dark chocolate sauce which came in a big coffee cup and looked just like that! I admit I did not even finish it -- but the pot de creme was the best I have ever had. I liked my dessert so much I did not reach across the table and snatch any hazelnut butter cake with sea salt caramel & hazelnut ice cream which looked dandy.

So, having finally been to the Hazelnut Kitchen, what do I think? Well, it is small and popular, hence the need for reservations way way in advance. And the food was good. I would go again, I would. I do not think I will be the devoted follower some people are -- simply because there are other restaurants out there to try. But I will definitely go again. And thanks for a lvely birthday dinner!

Bedeviled Eggs

I love deviled eggs. I do. In fact, I make them a lot with all sorts of things incorporated into the yolk when they are reconstituted into those lovely bites of half-an-egg. Deviled eggs, mmmm. So, I was particularly thrilled to open my mail one morning and find Laura Childs' new Crackleberry Club Mystery, Bedeviled Eggs and looked forward to reading it with glee. And, it met my expectations for a fun romp, more or less a cozy, with strong women characters and egg-y side comments to go. Perhaps the most entertaining aspect is the opening "speed reading" evening organized by the Cackleberry Club which involves speedily talking about books one has recently read and then deciding to ask for a number (or not) based on compatibility. A play on speed dating. Of course, this is the set up for the murder in some ways -- and the rest of the book moves along quickly from there, complete with several deaths (one via cross bow).

I like the main characters -- women who are more (and one increasingly less) single -- and who are strong, independent, business women. I do kind of wish that when series have this as a theme they might note that some do not want men, never had one, and are not looking for one, but even with this caveat this particular group is fun. I love their entrepreneurship in making a diner with a knitting nook and a book nook -- thereby combining all of their hobbies into businesses.

My one question: what is the origin of the label deviled eggs? (Or, for that matter, for deviled ham or deviled anything in cooking)? So, I began with -- gasp, I am no longer a scholar -- looking at the wikipedia entry on deviled eggs here. And here's what that article says about "deviled": "The term "deviled" dates back to the 19th century, referring to the use of particularly hot spices in cooking." Or at least that's what it says in one place in teh article. Then, immediately thereafter it says: "The term "deviled," in reference to food, was in use in the 18th century, with the first known print reference appearing in 1786.^[1] In the 19th century, it came to be used most often with spicy or zesty food, including eggs prepared with mustard, pepper or other ingredients stuffed in the yolk cavity." Hmmm. So, I went to the site cited there, which you can find by clicking here. And this article not only considers deviled eggs but Underwood Deviled Ham! Who knew!?!?! As to where the notion of bedeviled eggs comes from, well, I will have to leave that to you to find out. Just click away. And think satan-y satiny deviled eggs -- with a kick.

Yes, of course, the book concludes with recipes. Here's one from Bedeviled Eggs that is eggless --  a recipe for pear butter. My one comment: I would have liked to see a snazzier bedeviled eggs recipe. I had no idea that bedeviled eggs simply meant spicey deviled eggs. (For the epicurious recipe, click here.) Here is one of my own variations:

Deviled Eggs with Mango Relish

Do the usual -- that is, make hard boiled eggs and remove the yolks into a bowl. Smash the yolks with a fork. Add a dollop or two of mayo (I like safflower mayonnaise these days) and then add bits of hot mango chutney to taste. I try to use the oil mostly and the mushy stuff, making the yolks a delightfully spicey orange-y color. I use Patak's hot mango relish. (Not familiar? Click here.) And when I am really really daring I garnish with either a bit of the relish or (very hot) Indian cayenne.

For other reviews of Bedeviled Eggs (the book, yes, the book): click here or here.

 

Magazine Land Revisited

Have you read the New Yorker food issue? I have -- and it reminded me of how, once in a while, finding a new magazine is dandy. Of course, I have read the New Yorker food issue before -- but I forgot entirely it existed until, voila, one day, there it was when I popped in Buffalo Street Books in Ithaca. So: I bought it. It sat around -- and I carried it around -- for a while until it "baked" and then, I have been reading along in it, enjoying it. Smiling.

Of course, I always begin the New Yorker with the cartoons. Sometimes that is all I do. (Like when I am getting my haircut, since that is usually the only place I see the New Yorker.)  Yep, I am a cliche. Then, I often read the advertisements. No idea why. I think the only thing I have ever purchased was decades ago when I bought a Freud pillow. . .  Anyway, this issue the cartoons were not memorable but the essays I read were. Really. Memorable.

Perhaps my favorite was on the topic of root vegetables. Now, I have always liked, for example, potatoes and have loved the past few decades' change in which all sorts of new-to-me potatoes have arrived in my world via grocery stores and farmers markets. In my youth, the idea of a blue potato would probably have baffled me (and perhaps ensured I did not try them as an adult). Today, I love the variety of tastes, colors, textures and times of potato season. And, perhaps more relevant, I have expanded my love of root veggies -- carrots were not a favorite in my youth (perhaps because I found them hard and tasteless?) and now I am filled with glee when the farmers market has little groupings of red and orange and white carrots. hey are beautiful. Moreover, they taste . . . . like carrots! I love shredding a few and putting a bit of rice vinegar on them and. . . well, you know. But even more than potatoes and carrots, people around me (yep, the person who inspired and inspires this blog) have introduced me to the wonders of other root vegetables. Things I have never eaten before. Like parsnips. Wow -- I love parsnips. And turnips -- I used to think these were gross. No more. They are tasty wonders. And, at the right time of year, the perfect food, is carefully cubed-to-be-the same(ish)-size root vegetables with olive oil (and when indulgent butter) roasted til they carmelize. Who knew all those root vegetables had that much luscious sweetness in them? (Probably you, but not me, Not at first.) Mmmmmm.

What does all this have to do with the New Yorker food issue? Well, as I said, there is a dandy article on root vegetables by Jane Kramer. And much much more. Hurrah for magazine land.

What do you do with root vegetables? and how do they make you feel?

No Brio at Brio

The worst restaurant meal I have had in my life (whatever and wherever that was) has been trumped by Brio Mediterranean Bistro in Pittsford. With the exception of the company and the fact that they did not charge us a cent for the entrees that were inedible, I have nothing positive to say about the experience. And, for readers who are regulars here, you know that is unusual. The service was appalling, the pasta was so undercooked as to be inedible, and, well, even charging us for the drinks when the evening was so bad was probably a bit too much! Brio most definitely had no brio, unless you count the table of four we were at, filled with sparkling wit and vivacity.

Let me describe this more fully. First: I arrived with a friend to meet two others and waited for quite a long time to even be acknowledged and order a drink. A long time. And this was even after asking for a waitress several times. Then I ordered a "sophisticed hot and dirty martini" which was to come with a jalapeno and an olive. While it was not a bad drink, and clearly had the olive juice and jalapeno liquid in it, it was missing the jalapeno garnish. The bread on the table was stale. And then we ordered. The salad -- though nice -- came with the wrong dressing (good thing it was on the side) and one of us ordered a bowl of soup and got a cup. Then, the entrees arrived. I bit into a ravioli (or is the singular of that a raviolo?). I had ordered butternut squash ravioli with pulled pork and apples -- sounds weird, but a combo of several of my favorite foods. It was not al dente, it was basically uncooked. I waited a minute or more  -- and then I said something to the table. Everyone's food was in the same condition. So, we mentioned it when the waitress returned (eventually) and -- well, we had no time nor any desire to redo things, and we did not. All I can say is it is a good thing I had had a late lunch. (I ate bits of the pulled pork and apples; a bit too sweet to really set off butternut squash ravioli if I had eaten any of those -- alas.)

The people we were with had been there before -- and I am sure this was an off night -- I hope so anyway. But I have to say -- the place was not full and they simply accomplished nothing correctly. I could blame the snow -- but really. Why open if you cannot serve food?

For other people's reviews, click below on the icon:

Galveston -- Not Just a Song Any More

So, I hear Galveston and I think a song from several decades ago. (Think Glen Campbell. Yep, the song you can hear here. And simultaneously have a blast from the past by seeing Glen Campbell. You tube has everything, right? Same guy -- same argument. I hear Witchita and I think . . . Not Kansas but. . . )

Anyway, say Galveston and I do not even think Texas despite the fact that Galveston is, in fact, in Texas. Both the City and the Island. (No clue where? Click here.) And I certainly have never before thought of a seafood place called Gaido's. Until now. For some reason, I got this amazing package in the mail with a pecan pie and a cookbook in it. (Yes, free. Truth in advertising.) And I am a convert. I am unlikely to rush right out to Galveston tomorrow but I have to tell you, that pecan pie was the best I have ever eaten (and I like pecan pie). It was not too sweet, had the most lucious whole pecans all over it, and it was very very very (very) tasty. I gave half away and well, I ate more than half of the half remaining, if you get my drift. Should I have eaten something that I had no idea where it came from? Maybe that would not be advice to give to a kid =-- but this was the best pecan pie ever. And I might have missed it if I had been more cautious about eating things that show up, out of the blue, in my mail. (Wanna see it -- and maybe order some -- and NO they are not paying me to say this -- I just ate the darn thing and am totally hooked -- click here. 

What came with thet delectable pecan pie? A cookbook entitled Gaido's Famous Seafood Restaurant and subtitled A Cookbook Celebrating 100 Years. ANd yes, it does have a pecan pie recipe. (No matter what, I am absolutely certain that if I make it, it will NOT be as good as the one that came in the box. Not sure why, just sure that this hunch is true.) The cookbook introduces you to the history of the restaurant and the family that has run it for 100 years; offers recipes of all sorts from drinks through desserts; and is all in all more tempting because of the pecan pie. An entree into Gulf cuisine.

And, if you think you want to try the restaurant, here are urban spoon's reviews. And here's an article about Gaido's "regaining it's glory" complete with a recipe from the cookbook. Read 'em -- and think about the pecan pie as a dandy present to have shippefd along to someone. Anyone. Me.

Big Changes in This Kitchen: Have Rice Cooker and Finally Can Make Rice

I have been challenged by the idea of making rice all my life. In fact, my rice making has, for years, been terrible. I boil it over, leaving yucky starchy stuff on the burner. I burn it. I make lousy, lousy rice. It does not matter if it is white rice or brown rice or red rice or jasmine rice or. . . Whatever rice I make is simply lousy. (well, I have been known to make a pretty good risotto, but that may not count.) But now, I can make rice Hurrah!

Yep -- a gift -- a rice maker. Between family with the idea and money and friends/colleagues who picked it up in a Japanese market in NYC, I have a rice cooker. I have used it twice. It looks just like the one pictured above, brand name zojirushi  -- and called a neuro fuzzy. So, on the subject of neuro fuzzy -- turns out this is a kind of logic technology, in which the little gadget thinks for itself! (Thanks to this site for the picture.) And thanks to the gift, I have made rice. Hurrah.

As you can see, the darn thing looks very cute. It is sorta fancy -- with a LED screen, with melodies that play when the rice starts and finishes, and with all sorts of menu options and thises and thats. Alas, it did NOT come with directions, and I am not a mind reader. But the neuro fuzzy logic system seems to fit with my fuzzy brain and. . . . I am trying to go with the flow (not my strength). And, I have made rice twice so far with it -- hurrah! Hurrah! Hurrah! (Did I already say I made rice already? Yep.)

In both cases, I made it with a gift that came along with the rice cooker. The rice, reputedly among the best in the US, is: koshihikari which was a dandy gift too. The taste is wonderful. And I made rice. Twice. Did I tell you?

Unrelatedly, this has led me to pull a book I got i the mail a while ago out from under a heap. The book: Roger Ebert's The Pot and How to Use It, subtitled the mystery and romance of the rice cooker. Got it free via mail in my usual way -- and have only pulled it out from the heap, not even opened it. MIght though -- who knows! I do not think it very likely that I will read it since, yes, it includes as a whole chapter bits from his blog that Ebert thinks are "amusing." I am a bit tired of this sort of trend. In fact, the whole book (gasp, I looked) seems to be Ebert benefiting from comments on -- his blog! Recipes, suggestions, whatever.

Just because he is a Pulitzer-Prize winning film critic and (as the back of the book says) "competent cook" does NOT mean you should buy this. You should, perhaps get a rice cooker (and thanks again to those who are the reason I now have one) and try it. Much better than trying this book I suspect.

Rice cooking -- with rice cooker -- hurrah! And if you must read about rice, I suggest instead an older non-rice cooker oriented book which I seem to have misplaced (alas) by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid entitled Seductions of Rice and published earlier this century. (The two got divorced a while ago, which I hope is working out for them, but here's Jeffrey's blog and here's Naomi's. One is, I think, in Thailand and the other Burma. Hmmm. ) Take that, add rice cooker, and voila. Life is good.

Coming Soon . . . .

Have you read the New Yorker Food Isse? I have -- and will let you in on what I made of it. (No, I did not fricassee it.)

What else? Well, I have been wanting to go to Hazelnut Kitchen in Trumansburg and by the time you read this I will have been -- so watch here for a review. I did eat at a joint called Brio in Rochester recently -- which was, alas, the worst meal out I have had in ages except for a) the company and b) the fact that they did not charge us for a single entree (tells you how bsd it was).

And, I am sending out a few more requests for interviews but meanwhile, you might want to click here for Italy Hill produce at Hunt Country Vineyards or here for Dalai Java (yep, coffee) or. . . . Are you interested in lamb? I might just be picking up my half of a lamb so keep an eye out here for updates!

What else? Who knows? I might get above the 49th parallel and you never know what that might mean in the way of foodie delights.

Free Cookbook Just for You

So, I get free cookbooks. Do you want to have one sent to you? If so, and you are in the US or Canada, get 5 of your friends to log on to this site who do not usually. Really. Get them to leave a message saying you want the cookbook. And I will send you The Good Neighbor Cook Book by Sara Quessenberry and Suzanne Schlosberg. Well, actually, I only have one. So, get your friends to do this now -- and you will be first -- and I will send you the cookbook. Just you.

Why? Because good neighbors are not only literal, sometimes they are virtual - neighbors by blog neighborhood! And growing the neighborhood is fun.

More details: you'll have to let me know how to send it to you, and we'll have to figure out all that. But first, just get some people to leave messages below -- or, if you can't get them to do so, just leave one yourself, saying you emailed 10 of your closest bloggy friends that they should stop by here -- and . . . I might send you the book. I intend to send it to someone. Why not you?

 

Holiday Tidings? Holiday Gifts? Or Just More Cookbooks in My Mailbox

Yes, I get mail. Yes, I get cookbooks in the mail. You know that already, right? This time, I am looking at two: a book entitled GIfts Cooks Love: Recipes for Giving by Diane Morgan which comes from Sur La Table. And, Bon Appetit Desserts by Barbara Fairchild which, shockingly enough, is a Bon Appetit book. Both are beautiful to look at, though the latter is more substantial. And both are fun to peruse. I have yet to make anything from either, though I have spent a nice evening (or two) flipping past and reading aloud from dessert recipes in the latter case. What else?

Well, for one thing, I like the idea of a book that is focused on things one can make and give away, though I am not quite convinced it really needs a book of its own (what with all those books out there about preserving and cookie making and. . . . ) -- this one feels a little like it is stretched to make it into a book. Yes, lovely things in it. No, not something I would buy. But you might. And yes, I am considering giving away things I make for this year's holiday season, The book sort of remnded me of that.

Bon Appetit Desserts, though, is something I would drool over. I do drool over it. I do. I really am not a big dessert maker -- I am spoiled that way -- but this book has both lively visuals and lovely ideas. It's not surprising that lots of bloggers with a chocolate focus have reviewed it. Some of the recipes seem like loads of work, but even so. This is a hefty, beautiful book, and I hope if you are a big dessert kind of person someone gets it for you in some gift giving frenzy in the near future.

For a review (or two) (and a possible give away?) of the Bon Appetit cookbook, click here or here or here. The latter even has a recipe for -- 'tis the season, right? -- pumpkin pie.

And yes, there are even more cookbooks that came in the mail. I am not sure if I am drowning under a heap of them! Can one drown in cookbooks?