Sometimes, waiting is worth it. And we have been waiting for this interview with Laura and Scott of Madderlake Cafe for quite a while. You'll see this is a more or less joint interview with answers from Laura (front of the house and sommelier) and Scott (chef) and joint answers! I know this interview took some time from their busy schedules, so we are grateful to them the interview. Hurrah!
Bibliochef: Hi. It’s great to finally get to an interview
with you. As you know, I am a big fan of Madderlake Café and have mentioned it
a number of times on the Cooking with Ideas. Thanks for agreeing to answer some
questions! We’re all excited to learn more. So, the Madderlake Café opened in 2005. And I got to know
you in part because you catered my 50th birthday party.
(Thanks!) I wonder if you can tell
us the story of how you came to open a restaurant here in the Finger Lakes area
– and why Madderlake Café is there on Rte. 14.
Laura: We moved here in 2004 from Northern California’s wine
country for, essentially, a change of scenery and way of life. We had each been part of Sonoma
County’s wine and food milieu for 20
years or so and were getting weary of it. We’d each been part, to a greater or lesser degree, of the
blossoming of the restaurant scene in the mid-80’s, and that was great fun, but
by 2004, it was developing into a situation in which big money and celebrity
was starting to overtake the, let’s say, organic and indigenous, and
experimental spirit of the area.
When we had first become a part of “the scene” it was full of
mom-and-pop restaurants and a lot of experimentation and, by the time we left,
the area had been “found” and what we had come to love about Sonoma County was
dissipating. Add to that the facts
that highway traffic was becoming intolerable and the cost of living was
becoming unsustainable. So, we
started thinking: is there a
better, more tolerable place to be, to operate a restaurant with a personal
touch, and moreover, to live?
As
it happens, I (Laura) had met Peter Bell at one of the wine judging
competitions that I judged (at the same competition, one of the judges’ gifts
was a coffee table picture book of the Finger Lakes) and had become interested
in the Finger Lakes area. That is how upstate New York first managed to get on
our radar as a possible alternative place to live and work.
After purchasing a house and moving here, it would be almost
another full year before we would decide the final location for our
restaurant. After spending many
long hours looking at buildings over and again, we finally decided that the
former Francesco’s location on Route 14 would be our “spot”. It is a great location between Geneva
and Penn Yan and is very convenient for wine trail visitors. Although it took some time and money,
it was already a restaurant and had a functioning kitchen.
Bibliochef: I know some of your fans have heard you talk about your food
and wine related experience before you came to the Geneva area. Can you
describe that for us? While we're waiting on Scott's answer, which is "to be sent as soon as possible!" her'es Laura's answer
Laura: I have been in the food and wine business ever since my late
teens and it slowly became my career.
The positions I have held have included nearly every position offered in
a restaurant. I’ve been a
bartender, busser, cocktail waitress, waiter, dining room manager and general
manager. The only post that I
hadn’t ever held was owner – so, that was the next logical step. In addition to my direct restaurant
experience, I’ve worked as a cellar rat, made my own wine, judged wine
professionally and worked in tasting rooms. You name it, I’ve probably done it. When I met Scott, I was able to expand
my knowledge of food-and-wine pairing and, by working together, we were able to
orchestrate some unusual and tasty combinations.
Bibliochef: How did and do you choose your menu? Your wine list?
Scott: Any particular menu item I decide upon has to conform to our
stated mission, which is to offer interesting “wine country” fare, drawing
inspiration from American regional styles, with a focus on using local farm
products. (It’s true, everyone, it
seems, is “doing American” now – there’s a New American This or American Bistro
That just about everywhere – but I’ve been on this path for something like
thirteen years, and I’m not about to turn away from it just to avoid the
appearance of being on a bandwagon.)
As far as procuring raw materials,
I look at it as a sort of target, with several rings. The bull’s eye is this: The item is local, seasonal, and organic. Failing that, the item is regional in
general, and more-or-less seasonal (one has to serve something, and
failing that, the item has been raised or produced in North American: all my cheeses, for instance, are
American, from Lively Run’s chevre to Antigo Stravecchio parmesan [for some info on them, click here] and Roth Kase
Blue, both from Wisconsin.
Laura: The wine list has always been chosen with quality and
interest in mind. I am as
particular about the wines in our restaurant as Scott is about the food. I typically only buy 10% of what I
taste. So, I have to go through 10
wines to find one that is appropriate for the list.
When tasting, the absolute first
thing that I look for is is the wine varietally correct, meaning does it have
the attributes that it should have in correspondence with its varietal. Following that, it has to be a
well-made wine without flaws such as too much oak, off balance, too much bret,
etc. If it doesn’t meet the first
two criteria, I don’t taste further.
If it does, then the price comes in as a factor. Is it worth what I’d charge for
it? If so, then I consider is it
appropriate for the season, will it be a good fit with Scott’s menu, and is it
a style that guests will like.
When I am purchasing the wine for
the restaurant, it is not uncommon for me to buy a bottle or two with a
specific guest in mind. It’s
always fun to have a few bottles in the cellar, that are not on the list, that
are a perfect fit for some of my favorite guests! I’m very fortunate that our guests are more than willing to
taste varietals that may not be mainstream and are very open-minded. It allows me to buy and sell the wines
that I really love!
Bibliochef: Any wine recommendations?
Laura: In this economy especially, look for wines that are priced
under $15.00 retail and under $30.00 restaurant. There are amazing values in the lower price brackets, much
more than I have seen in recent years.
So much so, that I have found myself not looking much at the high-end
wines as I am having such great luck finding esoteric, small production wines
in the lower price ranges.
As
far as the local Finger Lakes wine industry, all I can say is that there are
some potentially great red wines just waiting for release from the 2007 and 2008
vintages! I have recently tasted
some younger reds at both Hermann Wiemer and Anthony Road. Both of the wineries red wines were
showing a depth, texture, and structure that I had yet to taste in local
wines. They are dark, deep, and
brooding without being jammy or overripe.
They lean more toward a Rhone-like quality, but they definitely are
unlike anyplace else. The specific
wines that I’d look for at these wineries are the 2007 Anthony Road Cab
Franc/Lemberger (should be released in March) and the 2007 and 2008 Hermann
Wiemer Cabernet Francs.
In
addition, the Rieslings from the 2008 vintage are showing great balance. They are almost like combining the
ripeness of the 2007 vintage with the minerality and the acidity of the 2006
vintage! What that means in real
terms is it could be one of those special vintages that comes along only once a
decade at best.
So, go out and
taste in the Finger Lakes at your favorite wineries, pick up a couple of
bottles, and enjoy the bounty of the area!!!
Bibliochef: Many of us know that you get your bread from normal bread in
Geneva. (For some Cooking with Ideas posts on the bakery, click here and follow the relevant links) Can you tell us how that came about?
Laura and Scott: When Dustin, the owner of normal
bread, was looking for a site for his bakery, he was considering the gas
station that was for sale right next to our restaurant. He came over and introduced himself and
we mentioned how much we’d like to be able to use local bread as we had been
having no luck finding a local baker.
Dustin let us know that as soon as he had samples ready, he’d bring them
over.
Within
a couple of weeks, his offer on the gas station fell through and we were very
disappointed. However, right after
that we heard that he had purchased a building on Washington street and was
slated to open. Just prior to the
opening, we were given samples (which were just what we were looking for) and
we had a baker!!! We have used
normal since the day they opened and have always had fantastic bread.
Bibliochef: Can you describe a day at the Madderlake Cafe?
Laura and Scott: Typically, it’s a ten-to-twelve hour
day, and also, typically, behind the scenes, it’s controlled chaos.
Bibliochef: I know that Madderlake Café is named for a color. Can you
explain why – and perhaps say something about the art on the walls?
Laura and Scott: When it came time to name the
restaurant, it certainly had to have an artistic nod to it as it is a passion
of both of ours. Scott kept
looking through books and on the internet and came up with a list of names and
when we came to MadderLake, it just seemed to fit. MadderLake, by definition, is an artist’s pigment, a.k.a.
alizarin, and it’s a bright, bold color.
The color was one that we liked and the word also had “lake” in it which
gave the restaurant a sense of place.
The
art on the walls is a combination of alternating works in the front bar area
and the permanent works which are the plates in the dining room. The glass in the main dining room is by
an artist named Christian Thirion from Watkins Glen. Christian was one of our first acquaintances in the area and
was one of our first diners in the restaurant. After his first meal, when he was walking out, he asked it
he could put a few plates on our walls.
Of course, we said yes without hesitation and asked him when he’d like
to put them up. It was a full two
months later that Christian showed up at our door with the plates and we were
(and still are) amazed by them. In
our wildest dreams we thought of half a dozen plates, never close to
thirty! And the installation is a
spot on fit for the space. We had
no input as to the color, size, or shape of the plates as we thought the artist
should be free to express himself without reservation.
The
alternating works in the bar area have come everywhere from an artist we met in
Ithaca to one of our guests from Keuka Lake to a professor at Hobart and
William Smith Colleges. We are
always looking for new artists and try to change the works at least three times
a year.
Bibliochef: Are you willing to share a recipe for something you make at
home or at the restaurant?
Laura and Scott: Yes. I’ve never refused to give out a recipe, never “guarded secrets”. (There aren’t any.)
Bibliochef: So, that means, next time I am in, maybe I will ask for that Lemon Tart recipe! And readers will be asking for all sorts of recipes! Meanwhile, now for some questions that, in one way or another, I
ask everyone I interview. In your imagination, who would you most like to walk into
your restaurant and order something? Why?
Laura and Scott: Tom Waits. Why not? Also, my former partner and co-chef
from the mid-80’s: I respect his
opinion.
Bibliochef: What’s the absolutely best meal you have ever had? What
made it the best meal?
Laura and Scott: For us,
there is no “one” best meal – there have been many. From haute cuisine (such as the French Laundry, Bay Wolf,
and Brix) to that simply made hot fudge sundae served with the best
ingredients. . .
Bibliochef: So, now I am officially jealous. Another question: What music, films, books related to food and/or food
would you recommend? Why?
Scott:
Books: Anything by MFK
Fisher; Kitchen Confidential [by Anthony Bourdain]; Omnivore’s Dilemma [by Michael Pollan];The Doubleday
Cookbook; Time-Life’s "Foods of the World" series (published in the
70’s and maybe out of print); I Hear American Cooking, by Betty Fussell [for a conversation with Fussell, click here]; Not Afraid of Flavor from Magnolia Grill; Food Lover’s Companion.
Films: “Who is Killing the Great Chefs of
Europe?”; “The Cook, the Thief, His Wife and Her Lover”. [For the first, click here and for the second click here.]
TV: Some years back there was a Cajun-theme
cooking show on PBS hosted by a crusty old fart named Justin Wilson. What scream. (“Start with a gallon of Carlo Rossi Red . . . .” And he would measure with his
hands: “Dat’s ezzackly a teaspoon,
I guar-aun-teee. . . .”
Music: “Filipino Backspring Hog” by Tom Waits
(album: Mule Variations). It’s a primal-scream comic song about
“turkey-neck stew”, “bruleed okra seed”, and basting “with a sweepin’ broom.” [Click here for what claims to be a free download; I take no responsibility for any issues with this one. Bibliochef]
Bibliochef: What do you eat for comfort food?
Laura and Scott: Burritos, pizza, nachos, and pasta, M&M’s. . .
Bibliochef: Madderlake Café has been named as a favorite Finger Lakes
restaurant by a variety of thefolks interviewed here on Cooking with Ideas.
Turn around is fair play! Do you have a favorite restaurant in the Finger
Lakes?
Laura and Scott: Yes.
Ours. We have a few local eateries that
we frequent depending on our cravings.
So, I’d say that we don’t have
one favorite, but several.
Rio Tomatlan (authentic Mexican food - Canandaigua),
Suzanne’s,
Stonecat, and the
Red Dove come to mind.
Bibliochef: So, one last question after this swell interview. What am I not asking that I ought to ask?
Laura and Scott: The question that everyone always asks
us, “Why would you move from Sonoma County to Upstate New York???”
Bibliochef: Well, that you have answered! And thanks -- thanks so very very much. (And, for an old review of Maddlerlake on Cooking with Ideas, click
here.)
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