I'd like to thank Bibliochef for the kind offer to guest-blog here about eating in Rome. I've been to Rome and Italy just often enough to know that eating in Rome isn't eating in Italy - Italians are incredibly local in their patterns. Until quite recently a foreign restaurant in Rome served Venetian or Abruzzese food. Nowadays one can find Chinese restaurants and Moroccan restaurants and such in Rome - but I really haven't bothered with them. These are notes on eating in Rome, some of which applies elsewhere in Italy.
Likewise, with only a few exceptions I'm going to stick to the neighborhood I lived in this year (2008), between Ponte San Angelo and Piazza Navona (rione Parione). Restaurants in Rome sometimes seem to have the same menu; one judges restaurants by elegant variations on traditional elements. So the restaurants you can find in your neighborhood will vary, but not by as much as you might think. Season is probably more important than price-point. Salads of puntarelle with an anchovy sauce are only available in the early springtime, then they're gone. Everyone has them for a few weeks.
Let me take your through some of the possibilities for your days in Roma.
MORNING - Italians have a little something baked and coffee, either at home or at a bar. Bars are not bars as we think of them in America, nor are they coffee shops, though some of them offer seating. Bear in mind this general principle - it's always cheaper to stand - and you sometimes pay as much as a 100% premium to order table service.
A bare majority of Italians have a latte first thing in the morning, though plenty of folks have an espresso (a caffè ). A caffè americano,an espresso with some boiling water, won't raise an eyebrow. After all, you're not an Italian and they don't expect you to pretend. The two basic baked goods for breakfast are the cornetto and the cornetto con crema - something like a croissant but less devoted to flakiness. I always have a cornetto con crema. If I'm shameless, I will sometimes walk a block or so to the next bar on my list and have another round, but ordering a second latte would indeed raise eyebrows.
There are bars everywhere. Try a lot of them! Though there's hardly any point in making recommendations, two of my favorites were Bar Amore (via Banchi Nuovi 41) and Gerri's Bar (Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II & Vicolo Savelli - nice seating indoors).
MIDMORNING -hit a different bar, but try un caffè instead of a caffelatte. Romans flood out of offices and schools into the bars around 10 or 11.
EARLY AFTERNOON - You have four excellent possibilities for lunch in Rome - grabbing something in a market, stand-up food, sit-down pizza, or a full meal. I'll postpone discussing the full meal to Night.
On the hoof - You can always hit an outdoor market or grocery store and buy fruit, bread, cheese, and whatever else makes you happy. Remember that the fountains of Rome, unless they are explicitly labeled non potabile, have clean, cold, and delicious water. The little street side fountains, fontanelle, are excellent places to wash fruit. You might also carry an empty bottle to refill with water - at this exchange rate why on earth pay a Euro every time you want a bottle of water when the fontanelle are free?
Stand-up food - Italians never charge as much if you eat at the bar or carry something away. There are hundreds of places that serve pizza by the slice - pizza a taglia is a sign to look for. Order by holding your hands apart for the size of slice you want. You can have it heated or not - then you'll be charged by weight. This kind of pizza is often pan cooked with a thicker crust than the fire cooked pizzas. I love the potato pizza - the whole surface will be covered with a shingling of pizza slices, sprinkled with olive oil, spices (usually rosemary?), and baked. Yum! And hearty! There are good places like this everywhere. This kind of establishment usually also sells supplì, rice and cheese croquettes. Two or three of these and a drink are a great lunch - and they make a nice appetizer with a pizza slice, too. I'd buy them and take them home to refrigerate and eat them cold for lunch on my own.
One of the greatest - and cheapest - pizza by weight places is on the Campo de'Fiori. It says FORNO - "Oven" - in big letters above the door. The simplest pizza is either white pizza, pizza bianca (just oil and garlic) or red, pizza rosso, (red sauce), but they have many others. Again, point and move your hands - and watch out for the crowd! It can get smotheringly packed in there about noon. The pizza-man will wrap your selection in wax paper and bag it, weigh it, and hand you a ticket. Take that to the cashier - grab a drink from the cooler, if you like - and pay. Take your pizza and cut a block over to the Piazza Farnese to eat in peace and quiet on the side of fountain, or stay in the Campo de'Fiori for local color. It's hard for one person to spend three Euro at Forno for lunch, without a drink.
Bars offer another kind of standup food - sandwiches and panini. Tramezzini, triangular sandwiches on white bread, come in amazing varieties of fillings. I liked shrimp and tomato this winter, but you should experiment. If you have your caffe after 10 a.m. you will usually see the bar folks starting to make their sandwiches for the lunch rush. Panini - do we italicize this any more in America? I think not - are also premade, and usually very poorly labelled in the cold case! I always have to point and ask what on earth they are, unless there are clear bits of arugula sticking out around the edges of some prosciutto. The norm is for sandwiches to be heated up and served in a napkin. Italians regard touching sandwiches with your fingers as abominable and unclean. Unfortunately, this often leads to melted cheese sticking to napkins, but one must sacrifice for la bella vita. A meal with a couple of tramezzini or a panino and a beer or a soft drink will probably run 5 Euro or so.
Sit-down pizza, al forno -
The closest pizzeria to my apartment this spring was Pizzeria Baffetto (via del Governo Vecchio 114). Baffetto shows up in all sorts of guide books and it really is amazingly good - but theyr'e only open for supper and you have to stand in line to get in. Their location over near Campo de'Fiori is open for lunch, but it's kind of soulless.
For an amazing pizza at lunch time with the leisure of table service and the chance to eat in the sun (or just outdoors under a propane heater in the winter time) go to Pizzeria dal Paino (via di Parione 34, closed Tuesday). I ate here constantly this year - and in previous years. The service is lovely, and if you stay long enough there's plenty of family drama going on.
Roman pizza al forno should be cracker-thin and light on the sauce by most American expectations, and the normal way to order them is one per person. Total doneness of crust even under the center is the hallmark of a good one - with crackly edges for fun. Margherita, with mozzarella and tomato sauce, is the classic, but I love dal Paino's Four Cheese with zucchini flowers. Pizzas with lots more on them, like mushrooms and onions and sausage, are splendid, too - but more likely to be damp in the center. A family might order a large to share, but it's not all that common.
Pizza, a quarter or half-liter of house wine, and dessert will run 15 or 16 euro. I usually go for a half-liter and no dessert and keep it to 12, which is still a depressing amount of money for a pizza. Don't think about it, just eat.
LATE AFTERNOON - Many Romans have a drink between work and heading home for dinner. If you don't like Campari (and I don't), prosecco is a classic afternoon drink, and many bars with outdoor seating will bring complimentary salty crunchy things with drinks. Italian mixed drinks are under-iced, but if there are 2 or 3 people ordering gin and tonics even the hardest hearted waiter can be prevailed upon to bring a side-bowl of ice for the Americans. And in Italy in the summer it's worth admitting that you're a tourist for ice. They knew anyway.
bridging the gap - Happy hour is a new concept in Rome, where one celebrates evening with aperitivi, or "drinks." The best versions are wine bars with buffets of little munchables - the buffet either included in the drink price or separately priced for something like 3 euros. This is a great idea if you're finding Roman dinner hour too late to support - aperitivi start at 6 or 7. I'll give two excellent and rather different examples, neither in Parione.
In Trastevere, within sight of the Tiber - such as views of the river go in Rome - is Freni e Frizioni (via del Politeama 4-6). Cross the Ponte Sisto footbridge from the Campo de'Fiori neighborhood, cross the Lungotevere (the street paralleling the river embankment), and go left about a block. Freni e Frizioni is in a converted garage - the name means "Brakes and Clutches," after all - and the service parking lot has been converted into a terrace. Drinks are 5 euro for beer or wine, with several selections of each. I believe mixed drinks (mojitos are big in Rome, too) are 6 or 7. The generous buffet is included. They have raw vegetable crudités (not a common feature in Rome - if you stay for a semester you'll be surprised how glad you are to see celery sticks), cous cous with various sauces, roasted chicken cut into finger-food pieces, chips and dips, bean salads, a pasta or two with sauces, and other nice items. You can easily make a light meal out of the evening - and both inside and outside are comfortable. The crowd is young and rather loud.
A more adult version of the same event is Gusto winebar (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9) - upstream a few bridges from the Ponte Sisto at the Altar of Peace of Augustus. Visit the new Richard Meier-encased Ara Pacis on a Thursday evening when they're open late (8? 9?) and then go have aperitive at 'Gusto. 'Gusto is a small empire of food scattered around different parts of the building - wander around and decide where you want to go - I went to the wine bar this year, but the osteria (sit down restaurant) is good, too. The wine list is impressive and the staff is happy to make suggestions based on the simplest tastes - do you prefer structured wines? sweet wines? Give them a chance and they'll find you something. I think the wines for aperitivi ran about 8-10 euro a glass with the complimentary buffet of fancy finger foods. The crowd was more 30s than 20s and much better dressed, if that's the kind of people-watching you're in the mood for.
NIGHT - One distressing truth about Italy is that eating at nice restaurants for lunch wins you no price break - so have your bigger meal when it works for your schedule. We no longer have the built-in excuse of museums closing for lunch to drive us out into the restaurant world, but there are certainly days when a long midday break is appropriate. Peak dinner hour starts at 9 or even 10 on warm nights. Americans who stroll into a restaurant at 7 usually eat alone, if they're served at all.
When I went to Rome for a semester in 2003 my parents found me a handy little book, Cheap Eats, Italy. Sadly, it had not been updated, because I never had a bad meal out of it. One of their selections in rione Parione is on the via dei Coronari, a long, straight street lined with very expensive antique shops. Ristorante Tre Archi (via dei Coronari 223, close to the Piazza Navona outlet of this pretty, mainly pedestrian) is a typical, simple Roman restaurant. Soup, secondo, wine, and water comes to about 18 euro. Their tortellini in brodo is excellent. Secondi, meat dishes, run the range, though I think I always had either roast lamb with potatoes - a classic Roman dish - or a veal chop. I don't believe I ever had a dessert, which isn't fair to them, but I've always gone there planning to save money.
Just off the via dei Coronari is Osteria del Pegno (vicolo di Montevecchio, 8 - hard to spot, but worth hunting for!). I like this restaurant a lot - it's one small room and one big room, and maybe seats 30 people total. The glass doors of the big room open up on warm days and evenings and the front tables scoot out into the street.
Osteria del pegno's fettuccine and ravioli are both worth the effort it might take to find the restaurant. My rule of thumb - if you don't understand a word on the menu, don't pretend. Ask. Italian restaurant staff love to talk about food. Real Italians don't seem to order off menus (though they do if you watch them often enough). But especially when Italians are out with family for a special night at a favorite restaurant they will start by asking what's good tonight - and that's just the kind of thing to get the staff talking.
During the winter I occasionally (see prices below) had roasted meats here - lamb or rabbit - which always come with roasted potatoes or other root vegetables. Roman roasted lamb is cut - umm - differently from ours. Necks are often included, as is the occasional kidney. I was not surprised that I liked kidneys, because i like that kind of thing in general, but I'm sure there are folks who would be appalled. Rabbit is rabbit, and in shop windows looks distressingly like skinned cat. I hope the flavor is different - or maybe we should be eating more cat. One of the best things to eat in Rome is lombata di vitello, veal loin chop cooked on the grill. They're characteristically cooked to what we might call medium or medium rare unless you ask for it to be pink (rosa).
I believe this is where I first ate a semifreddo - a cold custard dessert. Dreamy - but summertime only. Their other desserts, particularly the torta della nonna, the house cake, are worthwhile, too.
Primo, secondo, water, wine, and a dessert runs about 35 euro - and if you're an appreciative eater you'll not unlikely get a free limoncello or grappa afterwards. Reservations are often necessary on weekends and even on weeknights if you show up after 9 with a party of 2 or more - telephone 06.688.07.025. Closed Tuesday.
Across the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II from the Chiesa Nuova (which was about where I lived this spring) is Trattoria da Luigi (piazza sforza Cesarini, 25 - closed Monday?). Da in Italian is like chez in French restaurant names - "house of, place of." Da Luigi has wonderful outdoor tables, and is a great place to have a long, late sunny lunch or a long, late, evening dinner in warm weather. Inside is cozier - lots of little rooms upstairs and down.
If you eat inside you walk in to confront a big table of prepared things - items ready to dish out for antipaste or to carry back into the kitchen to heat up and serve. Remember what I said about asking? Pointing and asking about a bowl full of minature octopuses got me an amazing plateful of moscardini one night, 2 inch octopuses that had been stewed, I think, in a very spicy tomato sauce. I was stunned. They also did a very good fried artichoke, the essential carciofi alla giudea of Rome. I could eat them all night long if restaurants didn't price them so unfairly. Why should they cost 4.50 euros apiece? or 6? It's wicked, I tell you! Most side vegetables, contorni, are priced separately - and you can eat them before the pasta or with your meat. 5 euros is not an uncommon price.
I eat fish at da Luigi a lot - maybe because the first time I went there was a steamy June evening and we had carpaccio of sword fish for an antipasto and for a secondo I had grilled turbot (rombo - common on menus in Rome). For whatever reason, I enjoy fish there a lot. If you order a whole roast or grilled fish the waiter usually walks the fish out for display in its pan and asks if you would like to fillet it. Leave it to the professionals! I had a trout once this spring that was perfect - and hardly a bone left in it. I would've left enough to test my knowledge of medical Italian with an emergency room doctor.
One of my indulgences this year was to go to da Luigi and have a salad, a pasta or soup, and then a pear stewed in red wine and prunes for dessert - a perfect winter dessert, cooked so the redness penetrates the outer 1/8th of an inch of the pear flesh. Maybe it's middle age coming on strong, but stewed fruit is more and more appealing these days. My more indulgent dinners, when I'd have a secondo and a vegetable, ran 35-40 euro.
I never had trouble walking in and getting a table, but I always ate here alone this year and did it just frequently enough that they squeezed me in sometimes. Calling ahead might be wise - telephone: 06.686.5946.
Enjoy Rome if you get a chance soon - and eat something for me!
(Or, Bibliochef says: Live vicariously thanks to Michael aka The Cranky Professor, where this guest blog is cross posted!)