No, I do not mean scared. I mean chicken -- as in that food which seems ubiquitous at banquets. As in factory famring in all sorts of scare-y ways (scared-y cat?). As in this close up picture from this site, to which we express our gratitude. As in thighs and breasts, white meat and drumsticks. As in McNuggets and Buffalo wings. As in Colonel Sanders and, my Chicago favorite, Harold's. Chicken. Yes, chicken. In the case of the latter establishment -- whch I only later discovered was a chain -- fried breasts -- huge -- on top of white bread with fries and loads and loads of . . . hot sauce. A graduate student's delihgt.
Here, though, it's the title of a book, dear reader. No, not Harold. Chicken. Subtitle: The Dangerous Transformation of America's Favorite Food. Authored by Steve Striffler (a professor of Latin American Studies and anthropologist at the University of New Orleans.
I learned a lot form this book. Not about certain things which have become obvious to me -- factory farming and related matetrs, for instance. Other things like:
(1) Did you know that while beef was rationed in World War II in the U.S., chicken was not? (For more on rationing in WW II, click here.) Yes, in the back of my mind (where exactly is that, I wonder?) I knew that chicken was a less ubiquitous food then, and indeed was even in my baby boomer childhood and youth. But not this. Nor did I know that the absence of rationing, accompanied with the need for chicken by the armed forces -- and their purchase of virtually all of what was then the chicken industry's central area for production in Delaware, Maryland and nearby areas -- would lead to the emergence of chicken as a central "product" from the South. The transition from really really bad roads -- and changes in transportation -- made the cpaacity to transport chickens live to more distant locales a big deal -- and helped the South to its chicken empires of today. Of course, chicken is an animal that used to be women's work, used to be fed with scraps left over, is an animal that can be raised where little else can, etc etc. But chicken is today shaped by the history of war and regionalism and poverty and gender.The poverty of the areas that produce and produced chicken is shocking -- though obvious once one thinks about it.
(2) I also knew, of course, that one of the big food-relayted changes is the rise to dominance of increasingly processed foods. Adding "value" allows us to be charged more for foods -- so each increment of increased processing helped make (in the case of chicken) a not-so-profitable bird and a bird whose level of profit changed annually to something more worth the risk. And yes, Chicken McNuggets are part of that. Indeed, when McDonalds went into McNuggets they changed the world -- and others followed. A long term ramification of the notion that we'd be sold not whole chickens (or even live chickens) bbut chickens already butchered -- and butchered elsewhere than by our friendly neighborhood butcher. Apparently all those chicken tenders and nuggets are a huge economic powe, changing the landscape quie literally of chicken farming and of our cities and towns. In Geneva, NY, for example, chickens no longer grace our down town, where historically they likely did.
(3) And, again, I knew that food and immigration were and are entangled. But the level of connectedness of Latino immigrants and food was made very clear in this book. As the author puts it: "Today, most of the labor of producing nad processing food in the United States is done by Latinos, a majority of whom are immigrants from Mexico and, increasingly, Central America. Much of the behind-the-scenes labor that goes into preparing, serving, and cleaning up food is also done by Latin Americans. . . To find a meal that has not at some point passed through the hands of Mexican immigrants is a difficult task." (p. 5). This explains the rise of Latino populations in a variety of Southern states, where chickens are big big industry. Striffler does an apt job of depicting the chaging racial relations in a town seemingly suddenly transformed in its demographics.
The book has some interesing notes on the relation among immigrants as well in depicting working in a chicken processing plant (a near ubiquitous trend in food journalism these days to match the ubiquity of chicken) -- immigrants of various nationalities sharing food (most definitely not chicken) in the break room remind us of a different nation than their experience outside of work of prejudice and discrimination and hostility. (See p. 126.)
(4) I met "vertical integration" years ago in a book by A.D. Chandler on the emergence of market capitalism (long story). I still remember the book. But the emergence of vertical inegration in regard to chicken was less familiar -- with the egg producers and those who raise chicks i hatcheries and then those who grow them to weight and the feed producers and the truckers entangled in a history -- and then in an economy -- which is simultaneously wonderful and awful.
So, a slim book, worth the read. Chicken.