Thanks to this site which is, as usual, not actually depicting the actual pile of cookbooks which I am about to write about. (Yes, I own one of them -- Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home which is absolutely wonderful -- and yes, I have even cooked from that book -- but that is not the point today. (And that despite the fact that I wrote about cooking from Ad Hoc here.) And I definitely do not own the rest of this particular pile. I have a pile of my own, arrived by mail, that I am behind on writing about here. Hence the visual and hence the multiple cookbooks discussed below. Who knew that eventually this blog would (at least occasionally) feel overwhelming. Not me. And thank goodness it is only occasionally. I feel somehow obliged to review most (if not quite all) of the free cookbooks that arrived, unsolicited. I do not have time to cook from all of them, nor the inclination most often, but I do love reading them -- except when I feel like there is too much else on my metaphorical plate. And today, that's exactly the case. But, I also know that the overwhelming sense will, eventually, dissipate. So. . . . cookbooks.
In this case, both cookbooks examined below focus on a sense of place -- a sort of terroir of cooking, which seems to define some of the cookbooks that arrive at my doorstep. If you care about a sense of place and are a Genevan -- or any Finger Laker, try this book by my late colleague, Deborah Tall: From Where We Stand: Recovering a Sense of Place. For a tiny bit on that book, try here. Or just buy it.) I know Cooking with Ideas has a Finger Lakes focus, but the cookbooks come from all sorts of places, distant and far. In this case, Asheville,North Carolina and a less psecific, more mysterious place called "heartland." Well, actually, not so mysterious really -- we all have something in mind when we say the heartland. And so, in this case, the place is the midwest -- with a modern twist. The cookbooks are called, in the first instance, Tupelo Honey Cafe (subtitled Spirited Recipes from Asheville's New Southern Kitchen) and Heartland: The Cookbook. Let's look at these places.
The first book, by Elizabeth Sims "with" Chef Brian Sonoskus has its rooted in Asheville's award-winning cafe of the same name: Tupelo Honey Cafe. (For their publisher's notes on their bios, click here.) It has a lovely feel to its hard back bookness -- the dust cover is yellow, with a kind of honey comb effect and a tree, in black, silhouetted. The tiny bee next to the authors' names is a sweet little touch. The book really has nice insight into Asheville; think Thomas Wolfe (yep, of the "you can't go home agian" fame) and Biltmore (yep, Vanderbilts). The tone of the book is a cross between chamber of commerce-y sales for Asheville and recipes a cross between restaurant and home-y. I am even tempted by the notion of grits all because of one of the recipes which involved fried green tomatoes with goat cheese basil grits. (I was put off of grits quite seriously decades ago when I attended college in the South and was subjected to grits cafeteria style in the food servicce division of the university. Absolutely, unredeemably awful.) Hmmm. I love fried green tomatoes -- and there are actually multiple uses of green tomatoes in this cookbook. This cookbook made me nostalgic for a place I have never been. What does that mean?
The second book reviewed here has a big visual of a farm, complete with a red barn and a silo or two, against the greens of a few trees and a big sky. Heartland: The Cookbook (possibly with an emphasis to the word THE) is authored by Judith Fertig who has written several prairie oriented cookbooks and is also, I think, known as a barbecue queen. (For that background, click here.) The book includes reflections on how we came to call the Middle West the Midwest and how it came to include the states it includes. Its origins are, in many ways, Kansas, for example. Turns out there are loads of slow food advocates in the midwest. . . . who knew? And here, there are loads of bits I have not read yet, but likely will. Somehow, this was the best -- not the worst -- of the midwest.
One comment on the combo of these two books: its amazing how these books combine literature and cooking. They situate themselves in part by identifying the writers of their locales. In the case of Heartland, you're ot very far into it before, for example, you encounter Willa Cather and, of course, I have already mentioned Thomas Wolfe in regard to Asheville. (Also relevant there, Roy Blount Jr.) The Heartland authors also mention L. Frank Baum, author of the Oz tales, who indeed has midwestern roots but has significant upstate NY connections as well -- including his mother-in-law, Matilda Joslyn Gage. Yep, these are from Andrews McMeel, my favorite free cookbook joint. And thanks to them. While I enjoy a lot of what they send me, some are just tasty visuals, some too kitchy, and some just right. These are just right for today's grey day in mid-May.
For another review of the Tupelo Honey cookbook. click here or to order a signed copy, here.
For a review of Heartland from Santa Fe recognizing the midwest as an overlooked food region, click here. And for more -- a healthy helping more -- try clicking here. Learn about Fertig, her prior work, and this particular cookbook.