Cooking With Ideas

What is Circulating in Your Neighborhood?

In my youth, or what I like to think of as my youth, what circulated as a result of people's gardens was a single, unduly prolific vegetable: the zucchini. One would come home -- wherever that was -- to bags of them in the foyer or on the porch or beside (if home and work were entangled) one's office doors. A spate of muffins and breads might follow -- either shared with you unwillingly by unnamed stealth bakers leaving things, again, on porch or beside door. Occasionally, the same might happen with tomatoes, but for sure, zucchini plants produced way way way too much zucchini. Or so we all pretended. 

The great American zucchini swap was so culturally relevant that various ways to deal with the glut of zucchinis are the fodder of websites and zucchini jokes of various sorts. 

I happen to like zucchini, especially in a sort of Indian version called sabzi. In fact, I have been known to buy zucchini for that very reason. But that is a mere digression from the topic at hand. What is circulating in your neighborhood? What circulated this summer and fall? 

What used to circulate, with equal vigor, of course, was Tupper Ware. It was used to carry leftovers from endless pot lucks or to send things home with people after . . . well, cooking too much. It seems to me that tupper ware was a first step away from utter waste such as plastic wrap for many of us, and then was replaced with glass containers of various sorts for. . . ecological reasons? A return to the more ecological practices of the past. Or, maybe we wised up and realized that plastic made things taste . . . weird? In any case, the eternal tupperware circulation like the circulation of zucchini seems gone except for the occasional bit of Tupper Ware that is stuck in a drawer and used occasionally to house leftovers in the fridge. (Left over zucchini?)  

Today, in Fall 2017, neither zucchinis nor tupperware are the favored share. Their circulation no longer marks us as hip or ecologically minded or foodies.

One's foyer is more likely to house Ball jars of various sorts with various preserves, pickles and jams in them, awaiting pick up or just dropped off.  I have the most amazing array of jams in the pantry, none of which I either made or bought. Occasionally, these days there is a bag from, say, Wegmans or Trader Joe's with various things being moved back and forth between households and friends. Some bags never return, just like the Tupper Ware of a past era, and just as was true then, it is not a bad thing that these circulate like an underground friendship circle. I might not see my friends but I know they are there IRL (in real life) because I am enjoying the fruits of their kitchen labors. 

I love zucchini, I admit it. But this new circulation is wildly more interesting. Who knows what will come next? Here's what has been in my foyer -- coming or going -- this year (so far):

*sauerkraut

*kimchi

*green tomato chutney

*sweet tomato chutney

*peach chutney (of various sorts) 

*tomato jam

*empty bottles of various sorts acquired from various places

*turnips

*garlic

*tomatoes

*potatoes

Absolutely no zucchini at all. No Tupper Ware. (Is that, by the way, one word or two?) 

What does all this mean? A few ruminations.

First: Most of what arrives comes from women, though a remarkable amount originates with Fellenz Family Farms in my case. I am not sure what the gendering of all this means, though I think it may not be differently gendered than the circulation of zucchini or tupper ware. 

Second: there is a particular materiality to this which challenges the disappearance of all social interaction into social media. (Yes, I too notice that everyone around me has her or his face shoved into her or his or their phone.) On the other hand, since I never see the people (I assume) that deliver or pick up what is in my foyer, perhaps this is just another form of our disappearance fro one another' lives? 

Third: is this revivifying of preserving and canning a nostalgia for something we never had or is it something else entirely?  

 

 

Spotted Duck: An Interview

As readers of this blog know, I encountered Spotted Duck Creamery this past summer and fell in love with their ice cream! I wrote a short review and sent it along to the folks there. And then what happened? We corresponded  and lo' and behold: an interview emerged! I am thrilled to be able to share it with you today, especially for those of you who love ice cream as I do. 

Bibliochef: Let’s start with how you got into the ice cream business! Could you describe your path to this? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: Initially, we began making frozen custard, at the suggestion of a relative, to attract more customers to another business of ours at the time. We began researching and experimenting. We chose frozen custard because of it's quality and superiority over "regular" ice cream. It was also important to us to develop recipes that were composed of the most basic ingredients and to use local and organic whenever possible. The frozen custard quickly became more popular than the initial business that it was suppose to be complementing. As a result, we closed the initial business and kept going with the frozen custard. We sold at farmers markets and fairs until we felt we had developed enough of a base to plant some roots and establish the Spotted Duck Creamery on our farm at it's current location. [Editorial comment: that location is 999 State Road 54, Penn Yan, NY.] 

Bibliochef: I know from the name of your business – and your ice cream – that what you do is unique because the ice cream is made with duck eggs. What started your interest in ducks? How did you come to focus on Ancona ducks? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: We came across the fact that many foods are improved with the use of duck eggs over chicken eggs, such as breads, cakes, frozen custard etc. We decided to try it with our recipes and saw a tremendous difference. The frozen custard was smoother, richer and more flavorful. We researched many duck breeds and settled on the Ancona for a variety of reasons. 1. They are a rare breed. We are passionate about perpetuating rare breeds to increase genetic diversity. 2. They have a longer laying season than other duck breeds. 3. They have a wonderful disposition. 4. They are beautiful and fun to look at. 

Bibliochef: For those who want to know more about Anconas, click here -- or visit Spotted Duck Creamery to meet some of them! On another note, I am amazed by the flavors you have and the flavor profiles. Can you describe how you come up with them? Do you have a favorite? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: Our flavors stem from a multitude of inspirations. Some are inspired by what fruits, vegetables, wines or liquors and herbs/spices can be obtained locally, such as our Grog Nogg. Other flavors have been inspired by friends that request flavor combinations such as our Tad's Java Junction. Some are weather related, like our Hot Mud. Daniel wanted a spicy flavor to keep him warm at winter farmer's markets. Some flavors are fun twists on traditionally favorites, such as our Strawberry Rhubarb. We try to take a flavor that everyone loves, such as cookies and cream, and change it a little to give our customers something unexpected and delicious. Our "Real Cookies and Cream" is made with chunks of our house-made chocolate chip cookies. Or sometimes we just want to come up with something fun and different and brainstorm until we get a good idea. Elizabeth's all-time favorite is Strawberry Rhubarb. Daniel's is Wild Black Raspberry. 

Bibliochef: I really liked the mint, I have to admit but the wild black raspberry sounds right up my alley too! I know you focus on custard ice cream – can you describe the differences in kinds of ice cream and why you chose custard? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: Frozen custard is a type of ice cream. In order to be classified as "frozen custard", it must have a certain percentage of egg yolk. We chose to make frozen custard because it follows our "food ideals". We want to produce a product that tastes fantastic, but is built with the most basic, yet high quality  ingredients. All ice cream needs an emulsifying agent, such as egg, soy lecithin or guar gum etc. We chose to use ONLY eggs for our frozen custard. 

BIbliochef: Are their other ice cream makers that influence or influenced you? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: We do not know any other ice cream makers personally. We love good food and want to share that passion with others. We want to make an ice cream that tastes fantastic and made with ingredients that don't leave you feeling guilty for eating it.  

Bibliochef: I love the idea of “flights of ice cream” – and was amazed that I could, indeed, eat a flight and still feel good! In fact, I was extremely happy! How did the idea of ice cream flights evolve? Who makes the gizmos you use to serve the flights? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: Our ice cream flights were inspired by our region and our desire to change the "ice cream experience". First, we are immersed in the craft beverage industry. There is a plethora of wineries, breweries, cideries and distilleries on all sides and we wanted to be part of that experience. Second, our goal is to raise the bar on the ice cream experience by offering unique presentations. A local carpenter makes the flight boards to our specs. 

Bibliochef: I have to admit I assumed that the wineries and breweries around us inspired your approach to ice cream "flights." Glad to learn I was correct. So, on to an area where I am truly clueless. Could you describe a day in the Spotted Duck Creamery life? This might be different in the “season” versus in the winter, I assume? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: A summer day at the Spotted Duck Creamery- Daniel is in the Creamery by 5am making frozen custard. He does chores by 6am. This includes letting the ducks out of the barn, feeding/watering the ducks, chickens, turkeys. peacocks etc., and collecting eggs. Afterwards, he continues making frozen custard until breakfast time. After breakfast,  he finishes the days' churning. Then, he prepares waffle cone batter and makes waffle cones before the Creamery opens at 11am. After closing at 9pm, Daniel cleans up. Often times, there are many other tasks to do after closing time such as, processing locally grown fruit for fruit flavors, making caramel for caramel flavors, cutting fresh mint etc. Before retiring for the evening, he puts the ducks in the barn. 

Bibliochef: Now there is a full day! (And yes, readers: in addition to flights you can get sundaes and cones -- with the homemade waffle cones just mentioned, at Spotted Duck!) As folks who have been in the Finger Lakes for a longish time, could you say what you think are important changes in the region and reasons you find this the place for you?

Elizabeth and Daniel: An increase in tourism, largely due to the local craft beverage market, has helped to create the traffic and the "food culture" to sustain businesses such as ours.

Bibliochef: Agreed! While there are moments when the (literal) traffic drives me mad, it is certainly good for the economy! And, now on to questions I ask everyone. What’s the absolutely best meal you have ever had? What made it the best meal?

Elizabeth and Daniel: We can not pinpoint a best meal. We love exploring new foods and ways to prepare it. But our ideal meal consists of: 1.unique dishes prepared with locally sourced, organic foods and presented in an interesting way 2. food paired with local beverages 3. meals shared with good company

Bibliochef: I see how the criteria for your ideal meal influence your ice cream! What music, films, books related to food would you recommend? Why? 

Elizabeth and Daniel: In general, we encourage everyone to discover their food. Find out where your food is grown/raised. Research growing methods, food additives and processes. Be informed. We are big promoters of knowing your farmer. Buy locally produced vegetables and meats. The food you put in your body IS your medicine. It determines your health for today and the rest of your life. 

Bibliochef: What do you eat for comfort food?

Elizabeth: Everything! 

Bibliochef: Hmm! And Daniel's let off the hook there! I usually ask if people have a favorite restaurant in the Finger Lakes region, so let me know if you do! Otherwise, how about a favorite elsewhere?

Elizabeth and Daniel: There are many places that we haven't even tried yet! But we love Roots.

Bibliochef: So, finally, what am I not asking that I should? What question have you never been asked that you have always wanted to be asked? What's your answer? 

Elizabeth and Daniel:Nothing that we can think of.

Bibliochef: So, thanks for putting up with my curiosity! I look forward to more of your ice cream and hope that readers will venture out to try some as well. Happy Fall! 

Neat or Sloppy?

There is an enormous amount of controversy, both expressed and sublimated, in my household about the neat versus sloppy debate, sometimes (but not always) conflated with the dirty versus clean dichotomy. Yes, I have read Mary Douglas's Purity and Danger. In fact, I am currently reading a terrific book oriented against any sort of purity movement, including but not limited to purity in politics. I( recommend the book entitled Against Purity: Living Ethically in Compromised Times by Alexis Shotwell.) 

The neat versus sloppy debate -- like the impact of wearing snazzy silly socks (turns out to be done more often by geniuses I hear in various reports on Justin Trudeau) and a tendency to swear a lot (again associated with doing well according to some sources) often comes up about desks and offices and is r-read as a good thing.  Yes, messy is good. 

And yet, when messiness comes up about kitchens there is, perhaps, a strong counter tendency. Often the voice in support of neatness gets associated with Zen. It is, claim many, zen-like to clean as you go, wiping carefully and making sure nothing hits the floor. It is zen-like to wash everything when you clean up, including sweeping and mopping the floor. Being in the cleaning is as key as being in the cooking, the slicing, the present. 

It is, claim those opposed to kitchen sloppiness -- dirty and distinctly unhealthy to be sloppy in the kitchen. 

Some of this is tied to debate about emotions and cooking. Can one, indeed cook love into food? Anger? Is my tendency to get angry while in the kitchen (well, I confess, everywhere) infecting the food and making it less. . . tasty or, at least, less good? Is sloppiness negatively affecting the food in ways beyond those of health or aesthetics? 

I can see all this. I have read about it and watched Espe Brown's film "How to Cook Your Life." I can hear the reasoning and the reasonableness of the be-more-zenlike in the kitchen view.  

When you google neatness and kitchens all the search results end up with itms focused on the unhealthy consequences of being . . . not neat. (I cannot say whether this is related to the algorithm or to something else.) When you google angry when cooking you get two kinds of results: a) a set focused on how chefs are notoriously angry in the kitchen; and b) much further down some assertions that being angry in the kitchen is, well, bad for those who eat the food. 

My own personal version of the neat versus sloppy matter has led me to mis en place; to a container for my trash and bits that I peel, cut, or otherwise remove from the food I am getting ready to cook, and it has led, perhaps, to somewhat more neatness. (As has the voice of the person I live with, the reading I have done on bacteria in kitchens, and . . . ) I am a bit neater. No, I do not sweep the floor every night and yes, I suspect that I could be more thorough in washing the stove top. I am still a bit of a slob in the kitchen and this despite my photograph from above (which one viewer said depicted my incredible sloppiness while I see it as remarkably neat. Is this too in the eye of the beholder? of the diner? of the kitchen cleaner?) In fact, as you may be able to tell from this entry, I am more than a tad defensive about all this. 

Why is the neatness/sloppiness debate so prevalent and so, I admit, annoying to me? Am I simply lazy or is there another reason? 

Are you sloppy in the kitchen? Are you neat? Is this in any way correlated to your work desk? 

(Finally, and utterly by the way, I am writing about home kitchens not professional kitchens, of course, where state and federal laws are relevant. I think those are about health, though, not neatness. I am not convinced that neatness is necessarily a matter of health. Nor that sloppiness is always dangerous. It may, like messiness in other contexts, be all about creativity. ) 

And you? What do you think?

PS Only now do I learn there is a book entitled A Slob in the Kitchen. I know nothing, absolutely nothing about it. And, yes, that is an ovopur in the picture; I took the picture and if you want to know what an ovopur is, click here. 

Bitter Honey and BoxCar: Railroad Street in Rochester

On Saturdays, we often head off to do errands in Rochester, including dry cleaning, purchasing coffee beans at Joe Bean's on University Avenue, the Rochester Public Market and, of course, the mother ship (aka Wegmans, Pittsford). Oddly enough, the whole morning is actually fun and congenial -- in part because of the people and, of course, in part because of the food focus of the errands. 

One of my discoveries during these mornings occurred early on when I was very early to the market one Saturday and, on my way out, decided to get a donut and coffee at Boxcar Donuts and Fried Chicken. A somewhat sparse largish space, the morning I first went lead to a tiny bit of overindulgent;  rather than the one donut I "needed" I went with four -- intending to share them with my partner. I even went so far as to get a cucumber mint donut, which sounded odd, included two of my favorite flavors, and was indeed odd. It turns out that Boxcar's donut flavors are often mainly in the icings, which I did not then know. I also had my favorite donut -- a cinnamon sugar donut. The place was so happy making that I headed there when I had free time in Rochester to do some work, finding it much emptier and quite conducive to work on a weekday. Their lattes are good -- though they do not have caramel to add (I turned to vanilla and came to like it). I have not bought their beans, nor do they sell boxes of the delightful Kilogram tea they carry (which is disappointing as my household became addicted to their teas in Chicago). 

The service is friendly, often female, and always focused on getting you things in a reasonable time. The bathroom (shared with others in the building) is out the door and down the hall. And, the parking across the street is free (and also shared with a variety of other businesses). 

I have though, never eaten a real meal there, though I know they serve fried chicken, among other options! 

Yes, this, like the next place I will review, is right on Railroad Street, nearish the entrance to the Rochester Public Market. It's address is 127 Railroad Street.  

Bitter Honey was in the process of being constructed when I first wandered down Railroad street and is now open at the same address, 127 Railroad Street. The name itself attracted us -- and then the idea of brunch -- with cocktails -- snared us one morning. We have now been there twice on a Saturday late morning. 

Our visits made us happy -- though we are unlikely to make this a regular spot for ourselves. It is a mexican inspired place, which, like many paces, also focuses on cocktails, in this case emphasizing mezcal and tequila. I can say the cocktails have been inspired -- and wonderful. The food was amazing on our first visit -- and we ordered identically on the second in what my partner called (jokingly) a "validation test." To be honest, while the second visit was adequate, it did not live up to our first (shared) meal. 

Here's what we had in terms of food:

Guacamole:  We chose among several options, having been initially confused by a comma into thinking the pea only came with crab (it does not) the pea guacamole. (That is, all the guacamoles can be enhanced with crab. We did not). The pea guacamole comes in two avocado halves and is light, tasty, and seems somewhat . . . indulgent. The chips were amazing the first time -- so much so that those were, in large measure why we returned. Not as good the second time. The first time they were light and airy. The second, fairly traditional and somewhat stale seeming. 

Chilaquiles: I love chilaquiles and have both ordered them various places and made them at home. Yes, this dish can be made in very very many different ways, most of them amazing. In Chicago, I was a real fan of the chilaquiles at Nana's on South Halsted and had them almost every time I went there. I was expecting something like those at Nana's when we placed our first order for these: layers and layers of corn tortillas with a green sauce and. . . . What arrived was very different (in part because of the description on the menu focused on red!) and while not what I expected, very good. These looked more like the nachos I make at home: corn chips (nice ones) in a layer with sauce, eggs, and cheese. 

I should say, the second time was consistent with the first in appearance, but once again, did not live up to the very first time we ate this. Tasty but nothing to return for if you are driving a distance. Maybe what I am trying to say is that we wee unduly impressed the first time. Maybe what I am trying to say is that the tastes were murkier the second time. I am not quite sure -- and leave it to you to visit and comment. 

On both visits, we shared both dishes. This was perfect for us. I had cocktails both times -- and these far surpassed the meal the second time. (Be sure to flip your menu over as the cocktails on the reverse are quite amazing, including one that used corn cream.) 

On ambience: the place is actually quite visually appealing and has terrific art. Look especially for the rabbit on one way and the mule (I think) on another. Yes, there is free parking across the street -- and yes, the bathroom is the same one that folks from Boxcar use! 

Our visits were about a week apart. There were, we have to admit, more people in the room, and perhaps that explains our mild dissatisfaction with the food on our second visit. I would return, perhaps, for another meal at a different time of day. And I would definitely return for the cocktails. I like the ambience a lot -- and . . . . yes, this is a good addition to the newly burgeoning Railroad Street row. 

For a review of Bitter Honey from the Democrat and Chronicle, try here. For some City Newspaper commentary on Boxcar, try here. 

Milk Street

As you will perhaps, remember, I actually love magazines. And, I love browsing food magazines. And, this is harder and harder to do when one lives in a not-so-urban area and wants to try a different magazine once in a while. Lucky Peach is dying or has died (and is not around Geneva in any case; (check here for a story on its "mysterious demise") and Gourmet (rest their souls) is long gone everywhere except my basement. Yes, I subscribe to Bon Appetit and to Food and Wine. I am not quite sure why, though it lets me browse recipes with pictures. We even get Wine Spectator (which I admit is a new thing, having let our subscription lapse years ago -- I renewed in part because I had so many frequent flyer points it was free. And, I am finding it very interesting in terms of its coverage of Finger Lakes wines and other matters.) 

In any case, I like magazines on occasion. I have even been perusing the New Yorker in part for the cartoons (dare I admit it?) and in part because it seems to come very single day. (I know that is an exaggeration.) We killed the Nation for the same overburdening of our psyches, but not the New Yorker. Perhaps it is because one of us knows Dorothy Wickenden. (Hint: not me.) 

In any case, to end the digressions, I am writing today about Milk Street, a newish magazine by Christopher Kimball, linked to his cafe in Boston and much more. As he puts it "you know me, I am th e guy with the bow tie." Located at 177 Milk Street in Boston, he is focused on what he calls a "new home cooking," teaching cooking classes, headlining a magazine, doing television and radio -- the whole shebang. He is, according to his website, focused on enduring kitchen values which, he argues, are global. There is no longer an ethnic cuisine, there is simply cuisine. 

The magazine has the feel of Cook's Magazine, is ad free, and has (for me fortunately) fairly large print and is somewhat sparse. The tone it magazine chatty. (Why does it seem like Cook's? Because the guy with the bow tie, Christopher Kimball, founded it in 1980. Who knew?) 

I am not quite sure what I think, to be honest, but for the first time ever I chose to order something I saw mentioned in the Meze" section (aka the section where short little pieces talk about items available from various foodie websites and purveyors -- a kind of advertising without advertising I guess). One upon a time I had some mole powder (yes, cheating) from a swell spice shop in Denver. I have never seen it again. Hence, when I saw Kimball's recommendation for a mole powder from olivenation.com I diddled and dawdled and finally ordered some. (I also got pink peppercorns for a recipe for okra pickles I have, some sun dried tomatoes of the same recipe and . . . well, one more item). My order has not come yet, but do anticipate a review. (Yes, I feel guilty for ordering the stuff, but . . . once in a while a small indulgence?) 

For a free copy of the charter issue, click here. Here is the youtube channel for Milk Street. Yes, the youtube channel is wonderful. And, do note that Kimball does have a cookbook out. He is everywhere! Or Milk Street is.  

Cooking -- Preserving -- is a Liberal Art

Recently, a friend opined, on Facebook, that "canning food is a liberal art." I agree. In fact, I would go further: cooking is -- or at least can be - a liberal art.

What does this mean? I do not mean that you should rush out and advise people to major in food studies (though that is an option), nor do I mean that cooking is a luxury only in the way that many speak of liberal education (as available only to those rich enough to pay for it given its frequently exorbitant cost). I also do NOT mean that it is something that one only does for a certain number of years until one acquires the appropriate degree and moves on to the "real world." Nope.

At the very minimum, I think these enterprises challenges the theory/practice divide, encourage critical reflective thinking, are interdisciplinary, re    quire (or allow) life long learning, and more. 

The name of my friend who stated that canning is a liberal art? Warner W. Johnston. 

His blog?  It is called From the Kitchens of North Ridge Road which you can find by clicking here (and I have added it to the side bar to Cooking with Ideas! You will find delightful ruminations there -- including I hear on making stock. 

Have fun! 

 

FLX Table -- Geneva Has USA Today's #1 Restaurant

So FLX Table has been open a while and I knew that my partner wanted to go. I do not plan well. And, planning is what it takes to go to FLX Table as their tickets are available for a limited period of time and a month or so in advance. I am used to that in Chicago and elsewhere but Geneva. . .

In any case, we went to FLX Table recently, and were delighted. The restaurant has two seatings -- and we went to what we jokingly called the early bird special, the 6 pm seating. Along with 10 others, we had the chance to dine, drink, and awkwardly have conversation across a farm table. we were the only locals with others from Miami, New Hampshire, Jackson Mississippi, and nearer places but definitely not Geneva like Rochester and Syracuse. 

Let me start by saying this: the ambience is delightful. The fact that we could walk from the house to Linden Street for such a high quality experience was amazing, and Linden Street these days is the place to see and be seen. Besides the places that are regularly open (e.g., Micro Climate) and the festivals that fill the streets with people (e.g., Rose Soiree), it is a block long, and frankly, weirdly beautiful. Here's a picture courtesy of the Democrat and Chronicle of Linden Street:

 

And now, the restaurant? Here, too, the ambience is attractive and friendly while striving (in this case) for a high end or at least exclusive feel. We entered into a small room with a single high top table around which were seated or standing a range of people. We were greeted and then seated at the table, where we ordered tastings of a wine each and, eventually, persuaded the folks who were bogarting some pork and olives to share. (The pork was lovely, the olives quite wonderful -- and the plating on a wooden slice of tree showing the rings turned out to bode well for the place of wood in the table decor though not elsewhere.) We received playing cards (mine was a 7 of clubs) and those were used to seat us in the main dining location, a second room with a single farm dining table set with boards with bread and vegetables as well as similar boards with butters and small bowls of various dips. Like the other room, this too had a tin ceiling (and we wondered if it was original but speculate not). The bread was from Montour Falls -- and warmed/crisped by FLX Table. The vegetables got rave reviews from my partner -- a bit of cauliflower, some tomatoes, green beans etcetera -- all crisp and at the height of their possibilities. The butters: siracha butter, a browned butter, a curry/honey butter, and a regular lightly salted butter. The presentation of the butters was delightful -- each was presented molded -- the siracha was a leaves and stem mold, the curried/honey butter was a small bird, the regular butter was a small log with salt on top, and the brown butter was a cube (which looked as though the browned milk solids were suspended in a remarkably regular way). The dips -- a lemony ricotta, a cilantro agile, a hummus with seeds on top, chicken schmaltz (HURRAH!) and a fermented red pepper paste (I did not try this for some reason) were presented scattered about the table but with enough for everyone.  

We could see the chef plating and also some wire racks from which hung (I think) meats and other delicacies. And, of course, the tin ceiling. The light was even and made the space feel like it was opening up, as did the plants suspended in various ways above us but not (as it were) either in our faces or in a kind of stuck in the 1990s kind of way. 

How to describe the meal itself? The wine pairings we chose? On the latter, the options were varied -- an FLX tasting, a similarly priced world tasting, and a high end P.I.M.P. tasting (I think I have the acronym right!) which is what we chose. What was delightful about our choice was the sommelier (from Greece) provided us each with different wines as we went along, thereby allowing us to taste 10 wines rather than five!  I can say that though price-y this pairing was worth doing -- this once. It cost at least twice as much as the meal (see below) and perhaps in the future I would be more frugal. On the wine, I should note that we were (well, at least I was) nosy. We saw others served -- including a Santorini wine and several versions of local Element wines -- and the wine bottles were placed along the middle of the table for the meal. In terms of what we ourselves tasted, I liked that  we got a neatly typed list of the wines to take with us. Not everything we had was on that list, though, so we did have to have them amend the list at the end.

Perhaps most notable, at least one of the tastings we experienced was a wine bottled before I was born (see below) and at least one was bottled when I was in college (again, see below). The total number of ounces, they told everyone, for all of the pairings was around 2.5 glasses of wine. Hence, the drinking was responsible for those driving. And, the variety was not just in the grape but in the aging and the locale as well. 

Course 1: was the sourdough bread and butters and dips described above. It was served with, Tasting 1, champagne. In this case, we both had the same champagne -- and it was a delightfully "feminine" (aka small bubbles) crispy wonder. A 2007 Berech Montagne, Grand Cru. I give this course an A on both food and wine, though I think in my fantasy life I would have liked the champagne in coups. 

Course 2: Mushroom -roasted, pickled, black garlic, tahini. This was a small plate of maitake and hens of the woods mushrooms which, I learned by asking, were foraged. The black garlic was a smallish dot on the plate, the consistency of tamarind paste, and delightfully garlicky without hurting your head. This was my favorite dish as a whole -- the textures were delightful and the aromas very umami. My partner was not as fond of this, finding some of the mushrooms peculiarly dry. Tasting 2 was amazing. I received a Zind-Humbrecht, Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal, from Alsace -- a 1996. This was a truly amazing orange-y gold in color, with a strong nose. Though sweet, it was quite light with the mushrooms. My partner received a Trimbach, Riesling, Clos St. Hune also from Alsace, 2011 which was much lighter in color (obvious perhaps!) -- clear to light lemony clear. The wine was carried to the table in small beakers and about half poured into our glasses. The bottles for the wines were placed in front of us. 

Course 3: Described in the menu as: wasted Potato, foie gras, parsley, hazelnut, black truffle. This was a gathering of fingerling potatoes which were surrounded by a "sauce" of foie gras foam, and under that a parsley oil (which was a very very green green in color) and chopped roasted hazelnuts. The treat was this: both smooth and burgundy truffles were circulated for us to smell and choose. (There was an uncharge of $10 for the smooth.) Of course, we both chose the delightful and very umami smelling smooth black truffle. The waiter then circulated, shaving on to each person's dish the ruffle of choice. And, I can say, they were not stingy. My evaluation: this was, I was sure, going toe my partner's favorite -- for she loves potatoes. I liked it -- and the truffles especially -- but was not bowled over by it. Tasting 3 was interesting in part because the sommelier chose to present one white and one red wine. Both went well with the potato dish and both were quite spectacular. I began with the red: Dugat-Py, Pinot Noir, Petitie Chapelle-Premier Crum Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France, 2013 while my partner began with the 2013, Bruno Clair, Chardonnay, Mont St Denis, Burgundy, France. Of course, we shared tastes of both -- and I have to admit I would swing for the red every time.  

Course 4 is described in the menu as Lamb Pate, ratatouille, black olive, goat's milk, seaweed. When I first tasted the lamb, I actually said to my partner: Oh Jesus Fucking Christ this is good." I have never done so before. I admit it -- I was not a huge fan of the ratatouille (which seemed to me basically brunois vegetables plated using a circle) but the lamb itself, the black olive schemer and the tiny dots of goat cheese were . . . wow. The lamb itself was circular, about 2.5 inches in diameter and about 2 inches in depth. It was, of course, ground lamb -- pink in color, and very very tasty. I could not tell you what the spices were -- served room temperature-ish, with a dark dusting on the exterior of the cylinder, it was just amazing. With it: Tasting 4: I had the Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 1975 -- the wine I referred to as bottled when I was in college. It was, as the sommelier noted, quite a bit different from today's Silver Oak Cabs -- and as my partner said "pre-Robert Parker." Parker pushed forward the notion that big jammy wines were the thing. This predates it -- and he was (in my view) quite wrong. This was an amazingly tasty wine, opening to lush and definite berry and just plain winy-ness. The second red we were offered was Voerzio, Barbera, Riserva, Roche dell Anunziata, Piedmont, Italy, 2008. This was, in my view, not as satisfying though it opened up to a bigger yet light red. 

So, dessert -- often something I am way too full for in a tasting menu but FLX Table did a good job on portion size. Course 5: APPLE with buckwheat sable, raw honey, yogurt, brandied currants -- was a hit with the whole table, including when the caramel (which may in fact have been something else entirely) made the circuit to add more. The apple -- unknown variety -- was presented in a large-ish unpeeled bit, with yogurt around it and with a crumbled "sable." We are still trying to figure out what this was -- the chef said something about buckwheat shortbread -- but it was very very tasty and the mouth feel was such that it was there and then disappeared without quite melting? Amazing (and I have to admit I am not always a fan of apple desserts). This was a great choice to end with as the apple carried a bit of acidity onto the palate. And, you ask, Tasting Five? The sommelier gave us these one at a time. We began with Croft, Port Blend, Vintage Port, Portugal, 1963. This was light brown in color, not terrifically thick in terms of mouthfeel, and moderately sweet. The sommelier noted that he presented them in this order because it would seem acidic in comparison to the second of the two tastings we had with the fifth course: Toro Albalala, Pedro Ximenez, DOn PX "Convento"Montilla-Moriles, Spain, 1929 -- and yes, this is the tasting bottled prior to my birth. I have to say this was absolutely amazing. It was dark, lucious, and a mix of coffee, chocolate and burned orange or something like that on the palate. I would have licked the plate if it dribbled on to it. Yes, very good. 

Optional course 6: Ok, the sixth course is a marshmallow made by the chef -- available at either the Linden Social Club OR Kashong Creek. This was an effective way to get us out of the way for the next seating which was circa 8 or 8:30ish. And, it certainly sent those who had never been to Geneva off to another adventure. We did not take the opportunity -- but I think the others we dined with moved along down beautiful Linden Street. I admit that I might have liked to sit around for a bit longer but. . . . 

A few comments on the evening: there were, as I think I noted, people from all over. It was a blessing not to see anyone we knew, but trying to converse was weirdly awkward. We did though meet marathoners (well, half marathoners) from Miami, travelers from New Hampshire and a few others from closer to our area. 

Will we go back? Yes. And this is partly because the meal itself is priced reasonably (circa $50 plus tax and tip each ) and one can choose to spend less by focusing more on a reasonable approach to the wines than we did this visit. 

And: Having been there, I did do a bit of internet exploration about the folks involved, in part because I have been told we missed the real deal when "Christopher" was cooking. Who is Christopher? Chef and master sommelier Christopher Bates who, with his wife, Isabel Bogadtke, opened FLX Table and prior to that FLX Wienery. It is listed in Wine Enthusiast as among the 100 best wine restaurants in the country -- and I do think the wine list is a blast and really like it that there are tastings from very little when you come in at first. On Christopher Bates, described as a "rock star chef," click here. 

I do note that the chef our evening was a WOMAN -- and that means there are two powerful women chefs on Linden Street (I have not yet been to HJ Stead but I have eaten elsewhere when Samantha Buyskes has been the chef. I can say: two powerhouse chefs on Linden Street are WOMEN. 

And yes, rumor has it they are opening something new. Rumor is right - they are opening something new: Click here for a USA Today piece on what's coming. Also on Linden Street. A happening place. 

Sauerkraut 3

Yes, this is indeed the product of fermentation right in the kitchen with Bibliochef! As noted in a prior post, this is a turmeric pepper kraut, made with my partner's sister. It consists of a few cabbages, turmeric (the root itself and some powder), salt, pepper, and half an onion fermented in a crock purchased from Williams and Sonoma and . . . "baked" (aka sat around the house until I got to the place where I wanted to ferment!) . . . until the recent spate of sauerkraut making. 

Now in the crock? The makings of kimchi. In this case, I (alas) bought the nappa cabbage in Wegmans, and followed the directions from Fermented Vegetables. The cabbage, ginger, scallions, carrots, daikon, red pepper flakes and more will be sitting around in the crock for a few weeks and then (I hope) voila! I have to admit that the smells in the kitchen are wonderful -- and the huge bowl I used to mix ingredients -- from Medalta Pottery in Medicine Hat, Alberta -- made me feel very proud. We visited the museum at Medalta some years ago when "home" -- and the museum itself is wonderfully memorable (with its clear floors that allow you to see below to what was beneath) and we bought a fairly significant sampling of bowls, etc. 

And what, you may ask is kimchi? You are less likely to ask this, perhaps, than decades ago, given it appears now in many settings, having originated as a Korean condiment of hot fermented cabbage, and now appearing in Wegmans and Whole Foods. And, it appears on menus as well, certainly well beyond directly Korean restaurants. Once upon a time ages ago I made a variety of kimchi which used cucumbers -- they were delicious and stunk up the house in many ways! Now, years later: I have gone for cabbage. (For cucumber kimchi, click here.)

Next up: More "naked kraut" as that went over so well that my partner bought me an additional crock. And we made it. Today is the first week in the crock. 

Radio Foodie: Michael Warren Thomas

There I was, waiting on my partner, listening to the radio kind of vaguely, and wow! Suddenly, Geneva's food scene was the topic of extensive, intelligent and informed discussion. What was I listening to -- I asked myself. It was Savor Life, hosted by Michael Warren Thomas, a long standing food show on WYSL AM 1040 and 92.1 FM. I waited to hear his email address and then wrote him, suggesting he might want to know Alice Waters would be in the area in September. And, then, after discovering his website Savor Life, I wrote and asked him to do an interview for Cooking with Ideas.

Lo and behold! Here are his responses -- I hope you will enjoy learning about his passions as much as I do! And do visit his website to nudge him to update it! You will see why below.

Bibliochef: Thanks so much for agreeing to do this interview. Let’s begin by exploring how you came to have radio shows and why they focus on food. Can you describe your pathway to doing radio?

Michael: I started a natural lawn care/landscape design company in 1989 called Naturally Green, and taught many continuing education courses to encourage people to use fewer pesticides and consider alternatives to lawns. I really enjoyed teaching adults about gardening, and was looking for ways to reach more people. One morning I stopped at Donuts Delight on Empire Blvd, and one of the counter staff told me that my voice would be great for radio. I couldn't interest any stations in having me do a gardening show, but in 1994 I got the opportunity to buy time on a station from 7-8am on Saturday mornings. It cost more than I could afford, but when I mentioned it to Kathy & Stephen Kepler of Sara's Garden Center, they said they would sponsor me until I could attract additional sponsors. Because of that vote of confidence, they have had free sponsorship for the past 15 years.

I'm not much of a morning person, so 7am was a stretch for me to sound coherent on the radio. Over the course of several months the shows after me dropped out and I was able to move to 9am, which is far more reasonable (for me). Unfortunately, most of my sponsors closed for the winter, so I was not able to keep the show going year round and I lost my 9 am time slot in the spring and went back to 7am.  In 1996, I heard a food show on the radio in Boston, the Pat Whittley Show, which had been on the air for quite a few years. While I had quite a bit of gardening experience, listening to his show made me realize that I could host a food show and interview chefs and farmers. The food show helped to carry the gardening show through the winter, so I could keep my 9-11am time slot year round.

Bibliochef: Terrific tale! You lead me to ask how, if at all, do you see your radio work as linked to your college degrees in economics, political science and international relations?

Michael: My BA is from the University of Rochester, in Economics & Political Science. Other than the first three years after college when I did economic research for the Center for Governmental Research in Rochester, my liberal arts degree has helped me in more general ways. 

BIbliochef: Nice to hear the liberal education angle honored! Some might say that radio is “old fashioned.” Do you agree? And, if not, why not? How have streaming and related technological alterations changed what you do since you started?

Michael: Radio is old fashioned, but streaming and podcasts has brought it into the 21st century. I consider it the "Theatre of the Mind."  Unlike video which captures your full attention and leaves very little to the imagination, radio and audio in general allow you to simultaneously do other things like drive, exercise, cook, and garden.

Bibliochef: Love the "theatre of the mind" notion. How do you determine what you will cover on your show(s)?

Michael: I use an organic approach that others might refer to as haphazard. Most of my planning happens during the week prior to the broadcast, which allows me the flexibility to program people as I hear about things happening in the community. I don't do interviews with chains or big box stores, although I ran a few spoof ads for them on April 1st several years ago. I've been a strong proponent of local independent businesses since I started my shows. I am a "Chain of Independents" because I am an independent broadcaster on an independent locally-owned radio station (one of the few) with independent businesses as sponsors. Local businesses are vital for the unique fabric of our community, while the goal of chains to make the experience uniform.

Bibliochef: While your shows focus on a variety of themes, here at Cooking with Ideas we are particularly interested in how you got to food and wine as so critical to what you do? What is your pathway to that? Do you have earliest food experiences that are linked to what you do now?

Michael: I grew up in a family of people who love food. My mother taught home economics for several decades and said that she taught me how to cook so that I wouldn't need to get married until I was 35. I may know how to cook, but my wife is much better. I tend to handle the larger jobs of freezing sweet corn or pesto for winter. One of my most memorable food experiences as a teenager was a meal of 90 cheeses. A colleague of my father's was an engineer from France, and his father was a chef for Charles de Gaulle. He visited NYC and brought back all these cheeses for us to try. There were three trays of about 30 cheeses each, starting with the youngest and third tray had the longest aged cheese. In between offering these trays, he had several cooked cheese courses. I had never had a meal that lasted all evening and into the night, finishing about 2am.

Bibliochef: Amazing -- 90 cheeses! If you could interview anyone (from the Finger Lakes), living or dead, fictional or real, on your show, who would you pick and why? What might you ask that person or those persons?

Michael: I wish I had the opportunity to interview Dr. Konstantin Frank, Walter Taylor, and Charles Fournier. I've been encouraging people for years to meet the key people in the history of our region like Dr. Frank's son, Willy (who has now passed away), and Hermann Wiemer. Say hello to Art & Joyce Hunt at Hunt Country, Scott & Ruth Osborn at Fox Run, Ted Marks at Atwater, Lilian Taylor at Bully Hill, and Bev Stamp at Lakewood. We are lucky to still have family owned wineries in the Finger Lakes, rather than the corporate atmosphere of California wine country.

BIbliochef: You focus on the Finger Lakes, Toronto and Niagara. Why those three areas?

Michael: My website needs updating - I used to host shows about Toronto because there was a "fast" ferry that linked our two cities for several years. I hope to continue covering Toronto and Niagara in the future as only podcasts. At some point there will be another ferry that links our cities, perhaps like the one at the bottom of my main page for Toronto. Unfortunately we had the wrong ship (too big, too slow), using the wrong fuel (diesel), at the wrong time (SARS & 9/11). A closer connection to the most culturally diverse city in the world (Toronto) makes Rochester a better place to live.

BIbliochef: How might you compare the food and wine in the three areas? Do you have favorites in each of the areas in terms of wines? Foods?

Michael: Given that I no longer actively cover Toronto & Niagara, I would change the question to "How would I compare the food and wine around the Finger Lakes?

The small towns around the Finger Lakes are on the upswing, but Geneva is leading the way. Led by Microclimate Wine Bar and The Left Bank event space, the businesses on tiny one-way, one-block-long Linden Street have created a destination that is just beginning to establish itself. The FLX Table won Best New Restaurant in the United States last year, going up against much bigger restaurants in much bigger cities in a USA Today online poll, and the owners are working on several other concepts in the space next door (FLX Culture House, FLX Fried Chicken). A wonderful new restaurant just opened nearby, HJ Stead Company, as well as The Linden Social Club, Kashong Creek Hard Cider, and Wicked Water Wine Bar (just across Castle Street).

Bibliochef: Terrific solution to my question being out of date! And, like that Saturday morning when I heard you on the radio, it is exciting to hear you highlight my home town, Geneva! Given that you also do tours of various sorts, I wonder if you might have a fantasy location for a food tour (allowing your imagination to roam in time and place)?

Michael: About a year ago I stopped doing tours after 24 years of taking bus groups to the Philadelphia Flower Show, and occasionally a few other places. I needed to simplify my schedule and focus on my radio shows. Koning Day Tours runs excellent tours - I would highly recommend them.

Bibliochef: Are you willing to share your favorite recipe using local ingredients?

Michael: Basil from our garden with sunflower seeds in a fresh pesto, with summer tomatoes and sweet corn - it will be dinner tonight! That is a very simple recipe! Another simple one is Mark Cupolo's Sweet Corn Chowder recipe in the first Rochester Public Market cookbook. I've had corn chowder at many restaurants including some famous ones in California and NYC, but his recipe is in another league. 

Bibliochef: The following are questions I ask everyone! What’s the absolutely best meal you have ever had? What made it the best meal?

Michael: Dinner at Perigee Restaurant in Toronto, with fourteen courses - all of which had different variations for the three of us dining. They also paired each course with wine, and created a non-alcoholic beverage for each course for the person not drinking wine. The restaurant was in the Distillery District, but unfortunately has now closed.

Bibliochef: What music, films, books related to food would you recommend? Why? 

Michael: Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan and all of his subsequent books - wonderful writer and incredibly insightful about the role of food in our world. Dan Barber is another key author/chef, who featured a Finger Lakes farmer in the beginning of his most recent book, "The Third Plate." (For that see here.) 

Bibliochef: What do you eat for comfort food?

Michael: Peanut butter, crunchy is better - from Nunda Nut Butters, without salt, sugar, or any additives. It's great with a banana and good bread. That is the key, great bread from Small World Bakery or Flour City Bread Company. 

Bibliochef: I usually ask if people have a favorite restaurant in the Finger Lakes region, so let me know if you do! Otherwise, how about a favorite elsewhere? Or, if you cannot address this given your sponsors and your show, just skip this one!

Michael: Favorite restaurant - too many to name. Newest restaurant is HJ Stead Company in Geneva with the phenomenal Sam (Samantha) Buyskes as executive chef. She is an amazing person and I love her food. 

Bibliochef: I have not been there yet but am looking forward to it -- and likely an interview with her! In any case, here's my final question: What am I not asking that I should? What question have you never been asked that you have always wanted to be asked? What's your answer?  

Michael: What I would ask me? What are the issues that get you riled up?

1) Climate change - we must invest in renewables like we are desperate, because we are. I really admire Bill McKibben and 350.org

2) Lack of local wines in restaurants - We might be the only significant wine region in the world that does not support it's own wineries. There are a few restaurants that do, but when the average in Rochester is 7% Finger Lakes wines by the glass, and our state capital (Albany) only has 4% NYS wines by the glass, it is obvious that change is needed.

3) I would love to see more interesting non-alcoholic drinks in restaurants and bars. Sprite and Coca-Cola are boring and too sweet, but it is hard to find something as cheap (allowing such a high markup) as soda.

Bibliochef: Thanks so much for your generosity and ideas, Michael! Looking forward to hearing you again on the radio! 

For a reminder of some of Michael's talents, check out his website here. For a prior interview with him in Edible Finger Lakes, try here. And, for a view of the Finger Lakes form his perspective, try this at flx1.