There I was, wandering the world that I used to call the ethernet, and now think of as something kind of vaguely related to life, and I discovered this site: Jonathan Ned Katz on Queer Food Chronologies. How did this discovery occur? Frank Bruni posted about it, someone I have met, who once upon a time was NY Times restaurant reviewer -- and now writes on higher education -- and is a (somewhat conservative in my view) gay man.
In any case, I immediately emailed the site to myself in order to peruse it at length and write about it here. As I did so, I thought about my earlier entries in the "que(e)rying food" category of this blog, and also about a "cookbook" I think I might still own that somehow involved honey, lesbians, and recipes. Then, I went to Amazon, and wandered around a bit. No, I did not find the book I had vaguely in mind. Yes, there is a substantial literature on gender and food these days, some of which addresses the notion of "lesbians" and food.
In any case, a few reflections on Katz's ongoing project (I say ongoing because he asks that folks email him if they have input to the project and as soon as you look at it you will have things to write to him about):
Who is Katz? Perhaps obviously, Katz is a historian of sexuality who has been writing since the 1970s. Indeed, his Gay American History sits on my bookshelf and will always do so because its mere existence taught me an enormous amount in the 1970s and still does on occasion when I re-read portions of it. I can still recall my feelings when I (a) first sighted the large red paperback and asked myself how there could possibly be that many pages of material for a documentary source on gay American history. Imagine my surprise. I can also still recall (b) my feelings on reading the punishments associated with lesbian or gay activities (wink wink) in pre-colonial and colonial America. The shivers that went up my spine were shivers of disgust and fear. Since the 1970s, Katz has written numerous books and articles, and done much more as independent scholar and generally important public intellectual on LGBTQ history -- including the influential The Invention of Heterosexuality. So, someone with credentials in -- indeed a founder of what we think of now as LGBTQ Studies.
And, in some senses the not in that so very many of the documents included in that early work were negative inspired my own thinking and work to look for positive historical remnants -- and to create them for tomorrow through my own life.
What does Katz have to say so far about Queer Food and Foodies? Well, what he has posted is, as he notes and I noted above, a work in progress, with a fairly thin set of materials linking food and queerness. It starts with Melville and the date 1849 (which is wonderful), mentions without commentary Alice B Toklas's "cookbook" and . . . stops with May 19, 2017 and the "television premiere" of a documentary on James Beard, "The first foodie." The chronology is followed by the beginnings of a list of persons and things (today, May 11, 2017, this includes around 20 items, including "swish steak"). This is an exciting start on what could be a huge undertaking and I wish Katz well on it. IN fact, I hope he becomes obsessed and really pushes it forward or somehow (perhaps a bit through this blog entry) finds the help to push it forward.
Other resources?
My own tidbits from Cooking with Ideas can all be found here, with some more directly related to queer/lesbian matters than others. Among the things you will discover if you are even the teensy teensy-est diligent are some websites and articles on lesbians and food. (Hint, Mr. Katz?) Because I am not patient this morning and, indeed, have a bit of a headache, I will leave it at that and hope that Katz -- or you -- can find more and add them in the comments.
Hurrah.